Hands On

NOV/DEC 2004
Volume 47/Issue 6

Project Articles
Poor Man's Hall Butler
Holiday Hurricane Lamp
Old-Fashioned Toy Cars

Ask Smitty
Owner’s Gallery
Letters from Owners
New Baby Workshop Calendar
Academy Notes
Hardwood Information You Should Know - Pt 3
Service Pointers
MARK V Rip Fence

Woodworking Technologies
Stepped Dowels
Safety Lessons I've Learned

What's New
Rip Scale Upgrade Kit

Find A Shopsmith Woodworking Academy Near You

National Woodworking Academy in Dayton, OH

Online Accessory Catalog
Request Printed Accessory Catalog
Online Replacement Parts Catalog

Find A Shopsmith
MARK V Demo Near You

Request MARK V Information Package

Links Worth Visiting
Free Woodworking Tips

Contacting Shopsmith

Copyright 2004.
Shopsmith, Inc.
All Rights Reserved


Ask Smitty No woodworker (except SMITTY, of course) has ALL the answers. From time-to-time, everyone hits a snag, trying to figure out some sort of in-shop problem.
Don't worry, SMITTY can help. Just use the
special e-mail link to send your questions to SMITTY. He’ll do his best to get back to you soon, with the answers to those questions.

Here are the questions . . . and SMITTY’S answers for this issue!

If you're having a problem setting-up, aligning or maintaining your Shopsmith equipment, you should contact Shopsmith's Technical Support Staff (NOT Smitty).
Call TOLL-FREE, 1-800-762-7555 during normal business hours to speak directly with a Shopsmith Technical Support Representative.

Printer friendly PDF copy of article (19K)

Raised Panel-Making Fixture
From Wayne F. via email:
I am building your Colonial Dry Sink that was in the Sept/Oct 2001 issue. Can you please explain how you build the raised panels?

As you face my table saw, the blade tilts to the left. Do I put the fence to the left and then place the board flat or do I stand the board on its edge. How do I know the position of the wood's width from the blade in relation to the edge?

Any help would be appreciated as I am trying to get this ready for a Christmas present for my mother.

Start by tilting your saw table or blade to 15-degrees off perpendicular (in your case, tilted to the left, from 11 O-clock to 5 O-clock). Position your rip fence to the RIGHT of the blade.

Make a wooden “sled” that's shaped like a lower-case “h”, except with its “hump” on the left side and the vertical “leg” on the right. The inside dimensions of this “hump” should match the thickness and height of your rip fence.

Position the “sled” over the rip fence and mount your panel to it with clamps...or with screws from the back side (CAUTION: Be sure no screws are in a line with the sawblade when cutting)

Adjust your fence position and sawblade's depth-of-cut to achieve the panel profile you want. You'll have to make a series of trial cuts, followed by more adjustments with identical thickness scrap wood until you achieve your desired profile.

Check out this link http://www.woodshoptips.com/tips/041403/index.htm for a drawing of this special fixture.

DANGER: Table saw panel raising can be a dangerous operation because you can't use upper sawguards during this operation. That's why you need to build the "sled". This way, you can push the "sled" and keep your hands out of harm's way while making the cuts.


Repetive Drilling of Cylindrical Stock
From Pat H. Lexington, SC:
I am trying to find a way to do repetitive drilling of centered holes on a piece of round stock with my MARK V. Is there a jig or method I can make to ensure center alignment ? For example, I want to drill 3/16th holes in a piece of 1-1/4" round stock 36" long...starting at 4 inches up from the bottom, then at 8, 12, 16, 22 & 24 inch intervals. Thank you for any advice and suggestions

You can form a V-Block on your MARK V worktable by using your Rip Fence. Here's how. Set your MARK V up in Drill Press mode and tilt your worktable to 45-degrees.

Next, install your Rip Fence on the worktable. It will serve as half of a “V-Block” that's formed where the Fence meets the Table surface. If you're planning to drill all the way through your stock, you'll need a “sacrificial” piece of 3/4" stock against your Rip Fence face and another laying on the worktable surface. This way, when you drill all the way through, you won't be drilling into your Fence or Table surface.

Insert a bit into your Drill Chuck. Move the worktable in-and-out until the point of your drill bit aligns perfectly with the location where the bottom edge of your Rip Fence meets the worktable surface. You now have a “V-Block” fixture to hold your workpiece while you bore a long row of perfectly-centered holes. There you have it!

To be sure all of your holes are properly spaced, lay all of your workpieces on your benchtop with the ends in perfect alignment. Then, use a carpenter's square to scribe lines across the tops of all workpieces at once. When you drop your workpieces into the “V-Block” set-up, align the bit point with your scribed lines and drill away. That should do it.

Continue . . .

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