NOV/ DEC 2001
Volume 44 /  Issue 6

Project Articles
Rocking Horse
Child's Chalkboard
Wine Rack and Desktop Bookshelf

Ask Smitty
Owner’s Gallery
Letters from Owners
Academy Notes
Finishing Touches - Pt.2 Applying an Oil Finish
Service Pointers
MARK V (Worktable & Carriage) Troubleshooting
Safety Tips
Using Extension Cords

What's New
Pro-Fence System Router Table

Find A Shopsmith Woodworking Academy Near You
National Woodworking Academy in Dayton, OH

Online Accessory Catalog

Request Printed Accessory Catalog
Online Replacement Parts Catalog

Find A Shopsmith
MARK V Demo Near You

Request MARK V Information Package

Links Worth Visiting
Free Woodworking Tips

Contacting Shopsmith

Copyright 2001.
Shopsmith, Inc.
All Rights Reserved

Hands On


Here are the questions . . . and SMITTY’S answers for this issue!

Ask Smitty

No woodworker (except SMITTY, of course) has ALL the answers. From time-to-time, everyone hits a snag, trying to figure out some sort of in-shop problem.
Don't worry, SMITTY can help. Just use the special e-mail link to send your questions to SMITTY. He’ll do his best to get back to you soon, with the answers to those questions.

If you're having a problem setting-up, aligning or maintaining your Shopsmith equipment, you should contact Shopsmith's Technical Support Staff (NOT Smitty).
Call TOLL-FREE, 1-800-762-7555 during normal business hours to speak directly with a Shopsmith Technical Support Representative.

Cutting crown molding miters on a compound miter saw
From John S. Stacy, via e-mail:
How do you cut crown moldings on a compound miter saw? I have been told to put the molding upside-down on the saw. Can you explain? I want to cut inside and outside corners.

The back edge of crown molding has a built-in bevel at the top and the bottom. These bevels (or “flats”) allow the molding to sit at an angle against the ceiling and the wall when the molding is installed.

To cut the molding, place it on your miter saw with its face toward you. Rest the top bevel (on the back side) flat against the vertical “fence” of your miter saw....and the bottom bevel flat against the horizontal “table” of your miter saw.

After you place it in position, rock it back-and-forth until you feel it resting solidly on these flats before you make your cuts. Hold your molding firmly in position against the flats and make your cut.

By resting these bevels (or “flats”) solidly against the back-up fence and table surface during the cuts, you'll be sawing your molding at the same angle as when it's resting as intended against the ceiling and wall. There's no need to put the molding upside-down on the saw.

Continue . . .

Have a Question? E-Mail Smitty Today. . .