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End grain chatter on the lathe
From Dick Nangle of South Dennis, MA:
I’m having trouble hollowing out a long wooden (rock maple) cylinder mounted on a faceplate. No matter what cutting tool I use — even at the slowest speed on my MARK V — I’m getting violent chatter as I try this operation.
The easiest way to start hollowing a turning is with a large diameter drill bit mounted in your drill chuck on the Shopsmith Tailstock Chuck Arbor. Drill at the slowest possible speed. A few tips on removing the remaining stock: The cutting edge of your roundnose scraping tool must cut exactly on center and parallel to the floor. The tool will work best when ground to an 85-degree angle (see Figure 1).
For maximum support, the tool rest must be kept as close as possible to the stock. Finally, the stock must be absolutely flat against the faceplate with at least 1-1/2-inch of mounting screw penetrating into the stock to hold it firmly. The Greek key
From John Black of Valdese, NC:
I have a great deal of interest in classic furniture. The spiral turning and Greek key are both integral parts of many authentic reproductions. My attempts to recreate these designs have been messy and unacceptable. Can you give me any ideas?
Being part of classic (pre-Industrial Age) furniture design, woodworking trim such as the Greek key (see Figure 2) and the spiral turning were, by necessity, done by hand. The only way to authentically reproduce them today is still by hand.
You’ll need a set of sharp, high-quality carving chisels in order to get the best results when doing this meticulous work. Patient practice on scrap wood is the key to success. Continue . . . |
