ISSUE ARCHIVES

NOV/ DEC 2001
Volume 44 /  Issue 6

IN THIS ISSUE
Project Articles
• Rocking Horse
• Child's Chalkboard
• Wine Rack and Desktop Bookshelf

DEPARTMENTS
• Ask Smitty
• Owner’s Gallery
• Letters from Owners
 
Academy Notes
Finishing Touches - Pt.2 Applying an Oil Finish
 
Service Pointers
MARK V (Worktable & Carriage) Troubleshooting
 
Safety Tips
Using Extension Cords

What's New
Pro-Fence System Router Table

EDUCATION
• Find A Shopsmith Woodworking Academy Near You
• National Woodworking Academy in Dayton, OH

ONLINE CATALOGS
• Online Accessory Catalog
• Request Printed Accessory Catalog
• Online Replacement Parts Catalog

MARK V INFORMATION
• Find A Shopsmith
MARK V Demo Near You
• Request MARK V Information Package

LINKS
• Links Worth Visiting
• Free Woodworking Tips

FEEDBACK
Contacting Shopsmith

Copyright 2001.
Shopsmith, Inc.
All Rights Reserved

From the Shopsmith
Woodworking Academy
Finishing Touches --
PART TWO -- Applying an Oil Finish

Teak Oil
A number of naturally oily hardwoods such as teak, rosewood, cocobolo, padauk and ebony will bleed off an oil finish and never seem to dry. One way to get around this problem is to wash the project with an inexpensive paint thinner before applying the oil. The thinner will remove some of the resins near the surface, making it easier for the oil finish to penetrate the wood and dry. Be aware, however, that this technique could discolor your wood. For that reason, we recommend that you test it out on a piece of scrap wood (the same species, of course) before risking your project.

If you'd rather not mess with paint thinners, try Teak Oil. This finish contains special drying agents that help the oil to penetrate and harden on a resinous wood without discoloring. Applied in much the same manner as Danish Oil, it should be wet-sanded into the wood's surface to ensure the smoothest finish. Let it dry for 24 hours between coats. If you want, you can use Teak Oil as a primer and sealer for other finishes.

To determine whether or not you should use Teak Oil on a particular wood, pay attention to the way the wood feels and how it sands. If it feels waxy and the sandpaper loads-up easily, you would probably benefit from the Teak Oil. To be certain, test the Teak Oil against other finishes on scrap pieces.

Non-Toxic Oil Finishes
None of the finishes mentioned thus far will resist a constant soaking exposure to water (with the possible exception of Tung Oil) and all of them are toxic. Danish Oil will harden to a non-toxic finish, but only after 30 days or so. If you're finishing eating utensils or children's toys, use either Mineral Oil or a commercial Salad Bowl Finish.

Mineral Oil is applied much as Danish Oil. If a project will be used to hold liquids (such as a wooden bowl), fill the bowl with oil and let it soak for 15-30 minutes, then allow the project to dry for at least 48 hours before using it. It's important to note that Mineral Oil finishes also require periodic upkeep by rubbing them down with salt every once in a while. They're also not completely waterproof, and juices from meats and vegetables will soak into the wood. The periodic salt rub-downs will keep the project from going rancid. Commercial Salad Bowl Finishes provide superior protection against moisture and going rancid with far less upkeep. Applied much like Tung Oil, they can be used as both a penetrating finish -- and a building finish with the application of multiple coats. Another example of an acceptable non-toxic finish is called Preserve. NOTE: Even non-toxic finishes are toxic when in a liquid state and should be allowed to dry completely for at least 72 hours prior to use.

Caring For An Oil Finish
One of the major advantages of an oil finish is that it's so easy to care for. If the finish should become scratched or marred, simply sand the blemish out and apply more oil.

It is important to note that oil finishes have a tendency to dry out and should be periodically replenished. Every 6-12 months, rub the project down with a rag dampened with Lemon Oil. Lemon Oil restores the finish, but will not build up or change its appearance.

Liquid Carnauba Wax will also replenish an oil finish and will also fill tiny scratches, restoring the project's lustre. It will work particularly well with Danish Oil, giving it a deeper sheen.

Coming up in the January / February issue -- PART THREE -- Applying A Natural Finish