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THE
FACE FRAME & CARCASE
We built our example out of maple, but clear (or knotty)
pine or even cherry would make a beautiful piece, as well.
Start by cutting out the stiles and rails (A,B,C,D,E)
used in the face frame. Making this assembly first will speed-up
the construction of the entire cabinet. Using the horizontal
boring mode on your Shopsmith MARK V, drill the required 3/8"
dowel holes in the stiles and rails as shown in the carcase
assembly drawing. Glue and clamp these together, being careful
to keep them square during assembly. As an alternative (to
doweling), these stiles and rails could be assembled using
a biscuit
joiner and small, #0 biscuits.
Set this assembly aside and glue up the stock for the sides
(F), bottom (G)
and top (H). As an alternative,
you may wish to make the bottom (G)
out of veneered plywood. Once they've dried, sand their surfaces
smooth. Next, use a dado
blade set-up or your jointer to cut the 3/4" wide x 3/8"
deep dadoes in the sides (F) that
will be used to hold the bottom (G)
in position…then cut the 1/4" x 3/8" rabbets in the backs
of the side pieces (F) that will
accept the 1/4" plywood cabinet back.
Assemble the completed face frame assembly (A,B,C,D,E),
bottom (G) and sides (F)
using dowels (as shown) or biscuits. Clamp all pieces and
check for squareness. Cut the braces (J)
and top cleat strip (K) to length
and mount them with #10 x 1-1/2" flathead wood screws. Counterbore
the mounting screw holes for the braces (J)
so you can plug them later with dowel plugs. Cut the drawer
guides (Q,R,S,T) to size and mount
these to the carcase with screws and glue.
Continue
. . .
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