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THE BASE & TOP
To make the base pieces (L,M),
start by ripping your stock to 5" widths, then miter the ends
(vertically) to a 45-degree angle in preparation for assembly.
Be sure to cut your stock a little longer than necessary to
allow yourself room for minor adjustments. Remember, you can
always use your disc sander to remove a little stock, if necessary…but
it's tough (if not almost impossible) to ADD stock to a board
that you've cut too short!
Using your bandsaw or scroll saw, cut the curved contours
that will form the "feet" of your dry sink. You'll notice
that we've made the radius of these curves just slightly greater
than the radius of the Shopsmith
Drum Sander to ease the sanding process. Shape the top
edges of these pieces with a Bead
Molding or Shaper
cutter…or a 3/8" Round-Over
Router bit . Attach the cleat strips (N,P)
to the base pieces (L,M), then
assemble the base with counterbored screws. Turn the carcase
on its back and mount the base assembly (L,M)
to it with screws.
Cut the top (H) to size and round
over its front and two side edges (do NOT shape the back edge),
using the same procedure (and cutters) you used for the top
edges of the base. Cut all the required pieces for the splash
board (V,W,X) and the splash board
shelf (Y). Bevel the bottom edge
of the front piece to 20 degrees and cut the angle on the
front edges of the side pieces (W)
to match. Using your bandsaw or scroll saw, cut the contoured
shapes on the four splash board parts (W,X,Y).
). Using the same procedure (and cutters) you used for the
top edges of the base assembly, shape the front edge of the
splash board shelf (Y). Assemble
all the parts of this section together with counterbored screws
and glue. Attach the splash board assembly to the top (H),
using flathead wood screws (screw up from the bottom) and
glue. Screw the entire top section (with splash board attached)
to the carcase, through the top brace (J)
and front cleat strip (K).
Continue
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