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Ask Smitty |
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MAY/JUN
2003 DEPARTMENTS What's
New EDUCATION ONLINE
CATALOGS MARK
V INFORMATION LINKS FEEDBACK Copyright
2003. |
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Installing
quarter-round moldings There are no real tricks...but here are a couple of tips: First, I hope your room corners are 90-degrees square. If not, you'll either have to cope the corners or use some filler where the miters fit together. Unfortunately, I do not have the ability to include drawings or photos in my responses...and instructions for coping are difficult without some sort of visual. Therefore, if you choose coping -- and you're unfamiliar with this technique -- you'll have to look this up in an instructional woodworking book at the library or a book store. Start by measuring your distances from corner-to-corner very carefully, then cut your molding 1/4" or so longer than this distance....so it bows-up in the center, away from the floor. This way, when you nail it down, it will fit very snugly. Remember....it's always better to cut the molding too long than too short. You can always remove more stock -- but it's tough to add it back. So, start long and keep making small, trial cuts until you're satisfied that you have the right length. If you do need to splice two pieces together to attain your desired length, do this with an over-lapping 45-degree scarf-type joint whereby the mating end of your left-hand piece is mitered front-to-back....and your right-hand piece back-to-front. The two pieces should be glued together...tacked with a very small brad or two, being careful not to split the wood...clamped and allowed to dry overnight before installing into position. I'm sure you realize that you should stain all moldings before installing them. For installation, use small 4-penny finishing nails to nail them into position...into the floor...at a fairly steep (60-degree or so) angle. Use a nailset to set the heads and fill the nail holes with a matching colored wood putty. Hopefully, this info will help and doesn't seem too elementary. It really is a fairly simple process.
Resolving
Jointer Fence alignment problems There are two possible resolutions for this problem: 1) You may have sawdust or other debris between the glides on the bottom of the outfeed table and the cast-in ways on the body of the Jointer. Turn the Jointer over, upside-down and loosen the bolt to remove the outfeed table. Clean the ways thoroughly and apply a VERY LIGHT coating of grease. 2) Your fence could be twisted. Check this AFTER you've tried #1 above. Slide infeed tables and outfeed tables so they're perfectly flat and in alignment with one another. Remove the fence and lay it face down on the aligned tables. If it rocks, it's probably twisted. To be absolutely sure, lay the fence on a large piece of glass or a piece of laminate-covered countertop (either of these are usually perfectly flat). If it's twisted, it needs to be replaced. Call Customer Services (800-762-7555) for a Return Authorization Number prior to shipping. It could be covered under warranty and qualify for a FREE replacement. |
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