Weekend
Project
Article
MAY/JUNE
2002
Volume 45/Issue 3
IN
THIS ISSUE
Contest
Winners
•
First, Second and Third Place Winning Projects
Project
Articles
•
The Tall Bookcase
• The Folding Party Tray
• The Mug Holder Shelf and Baseball
Equipment Holder
DEPARTMENTS
•
Ask Smitty
• Owner’s Gallery
• Letters from Owners
Academy Notes
Finishing
Touches - Pt.5 Refinishing
Service Pointers
Lathe
Tailstock & Tool Rest Service Pointers
Safety Tips
Workshop
Fire Safety
What's
New
Hands-On
Timeless Classics Now Available on CD ROM
EDUCATION
• Find
A Shopsmith Woodworking Academy Near You
• National
Woodworking Academy in Dayton, OH
ONLINE
CATALOGS
• Online Accessory Catalog
• Request
Printed Accessory Catalog
• Online
Replacement Parts Catalog
MARK
V INFORMATION
• Find
A Shopsmith
MARK V Demo Near You
• Request
MARK V Information Package
LINKS
•
Links Worth Visiting
•
Free Woodworking
Tips
FEEDBACK
Contacting
Shopsmith
Copyright
2002.
Shopsmith, Inc.
All Rights Reserved
The Folding Party Tray
Next, lay out the holes for the carriage bolts and dowel braces (E) in the four legs. Using a 3/4" Brad Point Drill Bit, bore the through-holes for the dowel brace (E) and the 1/4" deep counterbore holes (for the carriage bolts). Note that for each tray, two of the legs have a through hole at the top end…the other two legs have a counterbore at the top end…and all four legs have a counterbore near their centers.
A DRILLING TIP: If you're using the MARK V drill press setup, set your rip fence to establish the hole centerline on your leg boards. Using the same 3/4" bit, drill the through holes in the brace locks (F) that will form the back sides of the notches that will accept the dowel brace (E) when the trays are opened…and the 3/4" internal radius at the left end of each Skirt (G) to accept the dowel brace when the trays are closed.
Change to a 1/4" diameter brad point bit and drill the carriage bolt holes in all the legs. Use the recesses that were created by the tip of your 3/4" brad point bit when you drilled your counterbores (or leave your rip fence at the same setup) to guide the positioning of these holes. Drill the center holes in the spacers (C) that you drew on your stock with a compass.
Bore the 3/16" diameter (through) body holes and 3/8" diameter (3/4" deep) counterbores up through the bottoms of the skirts (G) and all the way through the un-notched ends of the brace locks (F) for your attachment screws.
Bore the 3/16" diameter through holes in the ends of the upper and lower braces (B & D) -- and the (1/2" thick) top sides of the notched ends of the brace locks (F). Form shallow countersinks in these holes for the heads of your flathead attachment screws.
Use your bandsaw or scroll saw to cut out the round spacers; round the ends of the legs (A) and outside radius of the brace locks (F); create the notched and radiused skirt (G) ends; and form the 3/4" wide notches in the brace locks (F).
Use your disc sander to smooth all outside radiuses…and a small drum sander to smooth your inside radiuses and brace lock (F) notches.
View
Plans &
Assembly Drawings
Side
View
Leg & Space Layout
Brace End Layout
Brace Lock & Spacer
Skirt Layout
Inner Leg Layout
Outer Leg Layout
Assembly
List of Materials
Printer Friendly PDF copy of Instructions
