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ISSUE ARCHIVES

MAY/ JUNE 2001
Volume 44 /  Issue 3

IN THIS ISSUE
Project Articles
Curio Cabinet
Pot-Holding Garden Planter
Kitchen Pasta Tools

DEPARTMENTS
Ask Smitty
Owner’s Gallery
Letters from Owners
 
Academy Notes
Gluing-Up Tips
 
How to Set-up and Use your Shopsmith Complete Cabinet Set Shaper Cutters
 
Find A Shopsmith Woodworking Academy Near You

National Woodworking Academy in Dayton, OH
 
Service Pointers
Table Saw Service Pointers -- Rip Fence, Miter Gauge & Extension Table Troubleshooting
 
Safety Tips
Do’s and Don’ts

SURF’S UP
The Shopsmith Hollow Chisel Mortising Attachment
Specials & Online Catalog
Links Worth Visiting
Find A Shopsmith
MARK V Demo Near You

FREE FROM SHOPSMITH
Free Woodworking Tips
Request Accessory Catalog
Request MARK V Information Package

FEEDBACK
Contacting Shopsmith

Copyright 2001.
Shopsmith, Inc.
All Rights Reserved

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Major
Project
Article

The Curio Cabinet
 
A true reflection of your fine craftsmanship

Milling the Moldings
 
The two small drawings labeled “
Shaper Profile M” and “Shaper Profile N” show you how to set up your cutters to form the molding profiles. To make the base molding (N) and the shelf molding (M), start with a “blank” piece of 3/4-inch stock, about 4-1/4-inches wide and 40-inches to 42-inches long.  As you did with the rail and stile pieces above, cut an extra piece of 3/4-inch x 4-1/4-inch stock for use as a test piece in making your set-ups. Make it about 12-inches to 18-inches long.
 
Starting with your test piece, make your set-ups to cut the shelf molding profile
(N) on one edge of this stock. Use the Ogee Shaper Cutter (505932) and the Flute & Quarter-Round Shaper cutter (505934) to form the desired profile. Once you’re satisfied with the profile on your test piece, cut the profile on the “real” piece.

Now, make your set-ups to cut the base molding profile
(M) on the other edge of your test piece, using the same two cutters.   As before, once you’re satisfied with the profile on your test piece, cut the profile on the “real” piece. Once your two edge profiles are cut, rip the shelf molding (M) off to about 1-1/32-inches . . . and the base molding to its finished size of  3-inches. There’s no need to make the base moldings oversize so you can joint them super-smooth since their straight edges sit on the floor and won’t be seen anyway.
 
Use
Shopsmith’s Conical Sanding Disk (555477) or a hand plane to shave off the “proud” 1/32-inch and bring your 1-inch molding to its finished size.

Cut and fit these moldings as shown in the drawings. The short 1/4-inch dowels shown in the drawing are used to hold the shelf moldings to the shelf edges during glue-up. These are optional as you  should be able to hold their position without them. Add glue blocks
(V) behind the base moldings (N) for more support.
Locate and drill holes through the base
(K) and shelf (L) for the 1/4-inch dowels used to position the frames. Hold each frame member in position and insert a 1/4-inch brad point drill bit through the hole in the base (K) and tap gently to mark the location of each dowel hole in the frame. Do this on frames to base (K), bottom frames to shelf (L), and shelf to glass frames.  These dowels position the frames for assembly with screws.  Cut and fit parts (Q,R) for the door opening spacer. 

Continue . . .

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View Plans &
Assembly Drawings
 
Bill of Materials
 
Cabinet Assembly
 
 Construction Detail
 
Corner Detail
 
Door Panel Detail
 
Section A-A
 
Shaping Profile M
 
Shaping Profile N
 
Spline Detail