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Sticking Cut Set-Up
Without changing your table or fence settings, remove the arbor (with the cutter attached) from the shaper spindle. Change to the sticking cutter. This is the cutter used to form the mating male half of your two-part joint.
Put your smallest rub collar on your arbor first -- then your 11/16-inch sticking cutter (its ogee edge DOWN and away from the arbor setscrew) -- then the 1/4-inch (long-wing ) straight cutter below it, followed by the next smallest rub collar, the arbor washer and (tightened) nut. Be sure the two cutters are oriented with their cutting wings offset from one another (not aligned) and both cutting in the proper direction.
Install the cutter on the spindle, being sure the arbor “bottoms-out”, as it did when you installed the coping cutter. Rotate the cutter by hand to once again verify all clearances to the fence and table. Adjust your vertical quill setting so the top surface of your 1/4-inch cutter is exactly even with the top surface of the tongue left on the end of test rail you cut earlier.
Next, install the quill-mounted feather board guard and the table-mounted feather board that came with your Shaper/Drum Sander Fence and adjust them so they hold your 2-inch wide test rail firmly against the table surface and the fence as you make your cut on the inside EDGE of your test RAIL.
Make your sticking cut on the inside EDGE of your 2-inches wide test STILE. Check the accuracy of your cut by matching-up the coping cut on the end of your test RAIL with the sticking cut you just made. Once you’re satisfied that your cuts match-up, shape the inside EDGES of all rails and stiles, starting with the 2-inches wide pieces (A,B,C,D,F . . . then re-set your featherboard to shape the 2-3/4-inch wide pieces (E,G).
IMPORTANT NOTE: For more information about how to set-up and use our Complete Cabinet Set Shaper Cutters, visit the special article about these cutters in this issue of HandsOn!. Continue . . . |
