The Gateleg Table

3: Glue-up the tabletop (L) and set it aside to dry. We started by preparing adjacent edges on the jointer. We then used the Shopsmith Biscuit Jointer with #10 biscuits to hold everything in alignment while the glue dried. As an option, you could eliminate the need for biscuits by using a set of 24” Double Bar Clamps to hold the boards in alignment while the glue dries. We then added battens (K) to provide additional strength.

4: Cut the mortises in parts A,B & D for the stretchers. First, mark off the square sections on each leg, then the locations for the mortises (don’t forget that each piece of turning stock is 1” longer than its intended finished length).
Use a Mortising Attachment with a 3/8” Bit & Chisel Set to do the job. Be sure to make each mortise about 1/16” deeper than its mating tenon to leave room for glue escapement.
As an alternative, you could also create the mortises with a Router Accessory , then square all edges with a chisel.

5: Cut the stretchers F,G,H & J to size. Use a Dado set-up or a Tenoning Jig to create the tenons on the ends. Important note: All tenons are 1/8” smaller in width and height than the stock, except for the tenons on the upper stretchers (F & H). Take an extra 1/4” off the tops of these tenons (3/8” total). Doing so will prevent the tenons from splitting the tops of the turned legs (since they’re so close to the ends).

6: Turn parts (A,B,C & D). Accurately mark your turning centers on the ends of each piece. Use a soft mallet to avoid damaging your centers. Begin the turning process by roughing-to-round a 2” long section at the center of what will be the long tapered section. Sand it lightly, then install a Lathe Steady Rest to keep your long spindles from whipping during the turning process.
Start by cutting the shoulders, then round the turned sections. Form your design by turning the areas next to the squares first, then working your way toward the centers. Turn the feet as required (on parts A & B). Remove the Steady Rest and complete your turning by making light passes to reduce chatter. Finally, sand each turning while it’s still on the lathe, using progressively finer papers and a slow speed.

7: Cut off the excess at the top (and bottom, if you so planned) of each turning and sand the ends square on the Disc Sander. See drawings for accuracy.

8: Cut and sand each turned piece to the exact, same length. If you have a MARK V, you can ensure that each leg is EXACTLY the same length by using your Disc Sander with the quill feed feature – and your Extension Table with the MARK V Rip Fence as a back-up.

9: Mark and cut the notches in the main stretcher (E) for the legs (A). Use your Bandsaw or Scroll Saw to cut the gateleg (B) notches.

10: Drill 1-1/4” dia. x 1/2” deep dowel holes in the ends of the main stretcher (E) and legs (A). Drill countersunk holes for #8 x 1-1/2” flathead screws in (E) and (C) for the gateleg pivots (D).

11: Dry assemble all leg assemblies, checking for fit and squareness. If the fit is OK, disassemble, then re-assemble using glue.

12: Cut tabletop (L) into the three parts. Joint the adjacent edges of the leaves, then clamp all three parts back together. Mark and cut the mortises for the hinges, using a hand-held or router set-up, followed by a chisel. If you use the latter, a Router Corner Chisel will make easy work of squaring the corners of hinge mortises made with a router. Mount the hinges.