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Scraping
and Sanding
There are two primary methods of smoothing the wood to accept the
finish: scraping and sanding. Sanding is the simplest and the one
the majority of woodworkers are most familiar with. Scraping, however,
takes some practice, and in many cases, a combination of both scraping
and sanding is the best.
Start by going over your entire project with a hand
scraper. This will level off the surface of the wood and knock
off any glue beads. When scrapers are properly sharpened and used,
they will remove a tissue thin layer of wood with each pass and
in just a few minutes, bring your surfaces to a level of smoothness
that could require hours of tedious hand-sanding. For more about
sharpening and using hand scrapers properly, check out our special
How-To article entitled Use
& Sharpening Instructions for Hand Scrapers. Do be aware,
however, that hand scrapers will not work on end grains, so you'll
have to clean these spots up with sandpaper or a plane (a low angle
block plane is the best choice for end grains).
Once you've scraped your surfaces, begin sanding your project with
medium to medium fine (80 to 120-grit) sandpaper, then work your
way up to a very fine (150-grit to 220-grit) paper. The finer the
grit you finish with, the more prominent the grain pattern of the
wood will be…and the glossier your finish. Whatever you do, do NOT
use cheapo flint sandpaper, as the quartz dust could
react (unfavorably) with the finishing material you'll be using.
As you sand, use full strokes WITH the grain of the wood. Sanding
against the grain will produce scratches that will show up on your
finished project as unsightly lines. Sand end grains in one direction
only -- this serves to comb down the wood fibers. Finally,
when you're finished sanding, try running a nylon stocking (or pantyhose
fragment) over your sanded surfaces to help you locate any spots
you may have missed.
Continue
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