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MAY/JUNE
2005 DEPARTMENTS What's
New EDUCATION ONLINE
CATALOGS MARK
V INFORMATION LINKS FEEDBACK Copyright
2005. |
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The
English Flip-Top |
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3: Drill the dowel holes, in parts (A,B,C,D,G) using the MARK V Horizontal Boring mode of operation. Start with the ends of the sides (C), end (D) and rails (G). Next, locate the dowel positions on the legs (A) and drill these holes. Dry assemble the sides, ends, rails and legs. Locate the dowel holes in the tops of the legs for the arms (B). Locate the matching dowel holes for the arms, then disassemble the chair. Drill the remaining dowel holes. Round the back ends of the arms (B). Locate and drill 5/8" holes for the pivot pins (R) in the arms (B) and drill the hole for the locking pin (S) in the front of one arm. Mark the locations of the pin holes in the battens (K) and drill. NOTE: One batten has two holes -- one for the pivot pin (R) and one for the locking pin (S). Set the battens aside. 4: Assemble the chair. First, glue and clamp each of the legs (A) to the sides (C). After these have set up, glue these assemblies to the end (D) and rails (G). Check for squareness as you go. Glue the arms (B) into place. Attach the drawer runners (F) to the drawer guides (E) with #8 x 1-1/4" flathead wood screws. Attach these assemblies to the inside of the chair assembly. Cut out the notches for the legs in the seat (H) and attach the seat with #8 x 1-1/4" flathead wood screws. Bore 1/4" deep x 3/8" diameter counterbores for the screw heads use dowel plugs to fill the holes. 5: Make the drawer. First, check the size of the drawer opening on the assembled seat. Cut the drawer front (L) and back (N) to allow for 1/8" total clearance on the width. Cut the front, back and sides of the drawer to allow for 1/16" clearance on the height. Cut the 1/4" groove for the bottom with your dado blade or your MARK V Routing Attachment. Cut the 3/4" wide x 3/8" deep dado in the sides, to accept the back. Then form the locking drawer joint (see Drawer Joint Detail). Assemble the drawer by gluing and clamping the front, sides and back together. Check for squareness, slide in the bottom and secure it with a few 2d wire nails or brads. Do NOT use glue on the bottom. 6: Contour and drill the battens (K) according to the drawings (see Batten Layout). Use your bandsaw or a Taper Guide on your Table Saw to cut the angles. Drill 3/8" diameter screw pockets and pilot holes for the #10 x 1-1/2" roundhead wood screws. Use an oversized pilot hole to allow for expansion and contraction of the top. Center the chair assembly upside-down on the bottom of the tabletop to locate the position of the battens. The battens must run at right angles to the grain of the top boards to provide strength and prevent warping. Mount the battens to the top with the screws, then cap the screw pockets with dowel buttons. 7: Turn the pins (R, S) from the 1-1/2" square stock. Turn all three pins at once (See Fig. 1). Note that the locking pin is shorter since it is not a through pin. Next, turn the drawer knob (Q). Use your Screw Center to mount the stock on your MARK V Lathe. 8: Finishing touches. Perform all finish sanding and apply the finish of your choice to all surfaces. Cut out felt washers to go between the arms and the battens to protect the wood. |
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