Major
Project
Article
MAY/JUNE
2002
Volume 45/Issue 3
IN
THIS ISSUE
Contest
Winners
•
First, Second and Third Place Winning Projects
Project
Articles
•
The Tall Bookcase
• The Folding Party Tray
• The Mug Holder Shelf and Baseball
Equipment Holder
DEPARTMENTS
•
Ask Smitty
• Owner’s Gallery
• Letters from Owners
Academy Notes
Finishing
Touches - Pt.5 Refinishing
Service Pointers
Lathe
Tailstock & Tool Rest Service Pointers
Safety Tips
Workshop
Fire Safety
What's
New
Hands-On
Timeless Classics Now Available on CD ROM
EDUCATION
• Find
A Shopsmith Woodworking Academy Near You
• National
Woodworking Academy in Dayton, OH
ONLINE
CATALOGS
• Online Accessory Catalog
• Request
Printed Accessory Catalog
• Online
Replacement Parts Catalog
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V INFORMATION
• Find
A Shopsmith
MARK V Demo Near You
• Request
MARK V Information Package
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•
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FEEDBACK
Contacting
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Copyright
2002.
Shopsmith, Inc.
All Rights Reserved
The Tall Bookcase
3. Cut the other dadoes and rabbets. Once you've cut all of the ¾" wide dadoes, re-set the width of your dado cut to 3/8". As you can see from the illustration of the top corner dado-rabbet joint, the dadoes on the ends of the top (B) are just 3/8" wide by 3/8" deep and 3/8" in from the ends of the top. They are designed to accept the 3/8" by 3/8" rabbets formed on the top ends of the sides (A & O). Mark and cut these dadoes. Next, make the L-shaped rabbet cuts on the tops of the sides (A & O), as shown in the Drawing. Use the same 3/8" wide adjustment on your dado blade to cut them to a depth of 3/8", forming the rabbets. NOTE: Notice that these cuts are on the opposite sides of the side pieces (A & O), from the dadoes you cut previously.
4. Finishing. We recommend that you finish all plywood boards at this time so you can work with them while they lie flat to avoid runs. Here's another tip: Put masking tape on all board ends and on the bottoms of all dadoes where the joints come together. This will give all your glue joints a better bond.
5. Drill shelf bracket holes. We used brown, plastic shelf brackets to support our adjustable shelves. They're readily available at your local hardware stores or home centers like Lowe's. Choose the ones made to fit into 1/4" holes. Mark and drill 1/4" holes, set 2" in from the fronts and backs of the right side (O) and vertical shelf dividers (J & K). Space them at 2" vertical intervals.
6. Glue up the
carcase.
For
this, you'll definitely need the help of an assistant to provide an extra
pair of hands while you glue-up all the awkward carcase pieces with yellow
woodworker's glue. Before you get started, dry assemble all of the pieces
to be certain everything fits together properly. If not, make any necessary
adjustments before applying glue to any components. Get all the clamps
you'll be needing for the job and go to work. Leave out the adjustable
shelves (F, H, M) and the TV shelf (P)
during the glue-up. Don't glue on the top (B),
yet. Just set it into position on top without any glue for now.
7. Cut the pieces
for the face frame.
Start by cutting the left side (Q), right
side (R), top (S)
and bottom (T). Do not cut the narrower, 3/4"
molding strips at this time. If possible, use a helper or roller support
stand to support the long, 96" pieces as you cut them.
8. Joint the edges.
Run the edges of your face frame pieces over the jointer to square them
up and smooth them out. This gives a much smoother edge than you can achieve
with a table saw alone.
Continue . . .
View
Plans &
Assembly Drawings
Joinery
Rail Ends
Face Frame & Molding
Assembly
List
of Materials
Printer Freindly PDF copy of Instructions
