Hands On

MAR/APR 2005
Volume 48/Issue 2

Project Articles
The Sheltered Swing
Turn-Of-The-Century Medicine Cabinet
Puzzle Power

Ask Smitty
Owner’s Gallery
Letters from Owners

Academy Notes
Basic Joinery - The Mortise-And-Tenon
Service Pointers
MARK V Work Table and Carriage

Woodworking Technologies
Stepped Dowels

Safety Lessons I've Learned

What's New
Rip Scale Upgrade Kit, Cabinets, & Lift-Assist

Find A Shopsmith Woodworking Academy Near You

National Woodworking Academy in Dayton, OH

Online Accessory Catalog
Request Printed Accessory Catalog
Online Replacement Parts Catalog

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MARK V Demo Near You

Request MARK V Information Package

Links Worth Visiting
Free Woodworking Tips

Contacting Shopsmith

Copyright 2005.
Shopsmith, Inc.
All Rights Reserved

The Turn-Of-The-Century Medicine Cabinet

Here's a classic-styled Cabinet with plenty of “flair” and utility, too!

ISome projects look complicated, but really aren't. This cabinet is one of those projects. In fact, it's so simple that it's probably just as easy to make several at a time and give them as gifts to lucky family members and friends. In fact, if you have a Bandsaw and one of our new 6" high Drum Sanders, you can stack and pad saw, then drum sand enough sides (A) for four Cabinets at once - and enough top backs (E) for six.

Just nine simple steps and a 2-day weekend are all you'll need to complete one of these handsome Cabinets. Add about one more day and you could probably have five or six of them ready to bring some great smiles to a lot of faces. Here goes...

1. Cut the sides (A), top & bottom (B) and towel rod (C) to size, according to the Bill of Materials.

2. Use your Dado Set to cut the dadoes in the sides (A) for the top and bottom (B) - and for the stop rabbets in the sides (A) for the plywood back (J).

3. Use your Bandsaw or Scroll Saw to cut the contours on the sides (A) and top back (E). Smooth the curved surfaces of all cuts using a Drum Sander.

4. Drill the holes for the towel rod (C). Dry-assemble the sides, top, bottom and towel rod to check for squareness. When satisfied, assemble with glue and finishing nails. Install the back (J) with brads and no glue.

5. Cut the face frame stiles (F) to fit precisely between the top and bottom (B). Add a saw kerf or two...or use your Molder accent the front surfaces of the stiles. Glue and nail these into place.

6. Cut the shelves (D) and top back (E) to size, using the assembled frame as your guide. Shape the top back, then glue and nail these three pieces into position.

7. Prepare the door frame stock by first ripping stock to width. Then, use your table saw with a dado blade or a router set-up with a rabbeting bit to cut a 3/8" x 3/8" rabbet in the back side for the mirror or glass. Set your miter gauge to 45-degrees and cut the stiles (G) and rails (H) to size. Glue and nail the door frame together.

8. Mortise the door frame and the carcase for the hinges using a chisel. Drill a hole for the knob. Use a nailset to countersink all nails, then fill the holes with wood putty.

9. Apply the finish of your choice, then install the mirror or glass. If you're using a 1/8" thick, single-strength glass mirror, be sure to strengthen it with a 1/4" plywood back-up.

Continue to Bill of Materials...