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MAR/APR
2005
Volume 48/Issue 2
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The Sheltered Swing
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The Sheltered Swing
The Porch Sing of Choice for those without a porch!
“My wife always wanted a porch swing...”, wrote Bob Thompson, winner of Shopsmith's (1982) Woodworking In The Great Outdoors contest. “...but we didn't have a porch to hang the thing from.” So, Bob designed and built his own mini-porch to shelter the swing. And even after more than 20 years have passed, we think that Bob's design is as timeless today as it was way back then - and we'll bet you'll agree.
The Swing
Bob made the swing-portion of his project out of oak...but you could just
as easily make it from almost any wood. Other great choices (for their
weather-resistance) would include redwood, Western red cedar, cypress
or first-rate pressure-treated lumber. The sizes can also be easily modified.
For example, you might prefer a slightly longer swing - or a larger shelter
for more protection from rain or ultraviolet rays. The choice is yours.
Start by cutting all of your swing components to size, according to the Bill of Materials. Use a Bandsaw to cut the contours on the seat supports (B), the arm rests (D) and the angled ends of the back supports (F). Once cut, use your Drum Sander to sand these cuts smooth.
Next, assemble the rectangular base of the swing, which is comprised of the five curved-top seat supports (B) and the front and rear rails (C). Attach seven of the slats (A) to the curved tops of the seat supports with 3d galvanized nails and a good quality waterproof glue.
Start by evenly spacing your five seat supports (B) on a benchtop or the floor. When you're sure they're aligned properly, attach the front and rear rails (C) to each end of the seat supports (B) using two 3d galvanized nails and waterproof glue. To help prevent splitting, drill 1/32" pilot holes for the nails through the front and rear rails only. Do not drill pilot holes into the end grain of the seat supports. Once you're certain the assembled seat frame is square, set aside to dry thoroughly before proceeding.
Use 1/4" spacers to help you evenly space seven of the slats (A) across the tops of the seat supports and attach them with waterproof glue and 3d galvanized nails. As with the seat frame, it's important to drill 1/32" pilot holes for the nails. These holes should be drilled through the slat AND into the seat supports below.
IMPORTANT: Use an accurate 90-degree square to ensure the precise alignment of each slat prior to drilling your pilot holes... and 1/4" spacers between each slat to aid with proper positioning. Move from the back edge of the seat supports (B) to their front edges, repeating this procedure as you install all seven slats.
