MAR/APR 2005
Volume 48/Issue 2

IN THIS ISSUE
Project Articles
• The Sheltered Swing
• Turn-Of-The-Century Medicine Cabinet
• Puzzle Power

DEPARTMENTS
• Ask Smitty
• Owner’s Gallery
• Letters from Owners
 
Academy Notes
Basic Joinery - The Mortise-And-Tenon
 
Service Pointers
MARK V Work Table and Carriage

Woodworking Technologies
Stepped Dowels
 
Safety
Safety Lessons I've Learned

What's New
Rip Scale Upgrade Kit, Cabinets, & Lift-Assist

EDUCATION
• Find A Shopsmith Woodworking Academy Near You
• National Woodworking Academy in Dayton, OH

ONLINE CATALOGS
• Online Accessory Catalog
• Request Printed Accessory Catalog
• Online Replacement Parts Catalog

MARK V INFORMATION
• Find A Shopsmith
MARK V Demo Near You
• Request MARK V Information Package

LINKS
• Links Worth Visiting
• Free Woodworking Tips

FEEDBACK
Contacting Shopsmith

Copyright 2005.
Shopsmith, Inc.
All Rights Reserved

ASK SMITTY!
Here are the questions . . .
and SMITTY’S answers for this issue!

Plywood or glue-up?
 
From Brian G., via email:
 
I am relatively new to woodworking and would like to take on a larger project. In this case, I'd like to make myself a computer desk for my home office. I have been getting some different plans and modifying them to suit my needs. Before I start the project, I have a question about which type of wood to use for it. More specifically, should I use some high grade plywood or use glued-up wood stock like a red-oak? I wonder if the plywood would be too difficult to hide the edges.

If you're planning to have a “natural wood-looking” desk, use high-quality Oak, Maple, Cherry or Birch veneered plywood for all large panels...and matching wood for frame rails & other, smaller components.

Slice off strips of matching hardwoods and use them for edge banding your plywood. If you use birch ply, you could use maple edging....or purchase a roll of birch edge banding.

If you're planning to paint your desk, use A/B grade plywood for the large panels (with the "A" side visible, of course) and poplar for all other components.

Be sure to use a brush-on filler coat over everything before painting to achieve the smoothest surfaces. You'll still have to "band" the plywood edges prior to finishing, of course.

Shop Vac vs. Dust Collector
 
From Tim E. via email:
 
I have a question regarding the shop smith DC3300 dust collector. I'm wondering what the static pressure capability is of this unit. I was hoping that I could use it as a replacement for a standard shop vacuum. I realize that it won't generate nearly the water lift of a shop vacuum, but just how well will it work?

Dust Collectors and Shop Vacuums are DRAMATICALLY different in that respect. Where shop vacuums have low air volume and high static pressure that enables them to pick up heavy objects such as screws, nails and other “heavy” debris”....dust collectors typically deliver low static pressure and high air volume so they're better suited for capturing large volumes of lightweight stuff (such as dust).

Will the DC 3300 pick up dust off the floor? Of course it will...but I wouldn't use it to suck up heavy debris and wood chunks. Large objects can damage dust collectors.

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