woodworker (except SMITTY, of course) has ALL the answers. From time-to-time,
everyone hits a snag, trying to figure out some sort of in-shop problem.
Don't worry, SMITTY can help. Just use the special e-mail link to send your questions to SMITTY. He’ll do his best to get back to you soon, with the answers to those questions.
Here are the questions . . . and SMITTY’S answers for this issue!
If you're having a problem
setting-up, aligning or maintaining your Shopsmith equipment, you should
contact Shopsmith's Technical Support Staff (NOT Smitty).
Cove molding is made with flats on the back...on both sides of the board's width. One of these flats should rest against the ceiling...and the other against the wall (both) to hold your molding at a 45-degree angle when installed.
If you want it to fit properly when you place it in position, you'll have to CUT it when it's sitting at that same 45-degree angle on your table saw, power miter saw or cut-off saw.
Therefore, when you make your cuts, you'll have one of these flats resting on your saw's table surface...and the other against the face of your miter gauge (or power miter box's back fence)...holding it at a 45-degree slant as you pass it through the blade. If your miter gauge's face isn't high enough to allow this, attach an auxiliary wooden face to it before making your cut.
Hopefully your molding isn't so wide that your table saw doesn't have sufficient depth-of-cut to do the job. If it is, you may have to purchase a large, manual miter box to make these cuts.
This should solve your problem.