Smitty
MAR/APR
2002
Volume 45/Issue 2
IN
THIS ISSUE
Contest
Winners
•
First, Second and Third Place Winner Projects
Project
Articles
•
The Garden Bench
• Wren and Blue Jay Bird Houses
• Tapered Planter Box
DEPARTMENTS
•
Ask Smitty
• Owner’s Gallery
• Letters from Owners
Academy Notes
Finishing
Touches - Pt.4 Applying a Synthetic Finish
Service Pointers
Disc
Sander
Safety Tips
Ladder
Safety
What's
New
Hands-On
Timeless Classics Now Available on CD ROM
EDUCATION
• Find
A Shopsmith Woodworking Academy Near You
• National
Woodworking Academy in Dayton, OH
ONLINE
CATALOGS
• Online Accessory Catalog
• Request
Printed Accessory Catalog
• Online
Replacement Parts Catalog
MARK
V INFORMATION
• Find
A Shopsmith
MARK V Demo Near You
• Request
MARK V Information Package
LINKS
•
Links Worth Visiting
•
Free Woodworking
Tips
FEEDBACK
Contacting
Shopsmith
Copyright
2002.
Shopsmith, Inc.
All Rights Reserved
ASK SMITTY!
Don't worry, SMITTY can help. Just use the special e-mail link to send your questions to SMITTY. He’ll do his best to get back to you soon, with the answers to those questions.
Here are the questions . . . and SMITTY’S answers for this issue!
If you're having a problem
setting-up, aligning or maintaining your Shopsmith equipment, you should
contact Shopsmith's Technical Support Staff (NOT Smitty).
Call TOLL-FREE, 1-800-762-7555 during normal business hours to
speak directly with a Shopsmith Technical Support Representative.
Printer friendly PDF copy of article
Cutting
cove moldings
From Charles Hofele, via e-mail:
I'm trying to cut some cove moldings at a 45 degree angle without
success. I've tried laying it flat on my saw table with my miter set at
45 degrees -- upside down at 45 degrees, all with no success. How can
it be done?
Cove molding is made with “flats” on the back...on both sides of the board's width. One of these flats should rest against the ceiling...and the other against the wall (both) to hold your molding at a 45-degree angle when installed.
If you want it to fit properly when you place it in position, you'll have to CUT it when it's sitting at that same 45-degree angle on your table saw, power miter saw or cut-off saw.
Therefore, when you make your cuts, you'll have one of these flats resting on your saw's table surface...and the other against the face of your miter gauge (or power miter box's back fence)...holding it at a 45-degree slant as you pass it through the blade. If your miter gauge's face isn't high enough to allow this, attach an auxiliary wooden face to it before making your cut.
Hopefully your molding isn't so wide that your table saw doesn't have sufficient depth-of-cut to do the job. If it is, you may have to purchase a large, manual miter box to make these cuts.
This should solve your problem.
