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Smitty

MAR/APR 2002
Volume 45/Issue 2


IN THIS ISSUE
Contest Winners
First, Second and Third Place Winner Projects
Project Articles
The Garden Bench
Wren and Blue Jay Bird Houses
Tapered Planter Box

DEPARTMENTS
Ask Smitty
Owner’s Gallery
Letters from Owners
 
Academy Notes
Finishing Touches - Pt.4 Applying a Synthetic Finish
 
Service Pointers
Disc Sander
 
Safety Tips
Ladder Safety

What's New
Hands-On Timeless Classics Now Available on CD ROM

EDUCATION
Find A Shopsmith Woodworking Academy Near You

National Woodworking Academy in Dayton, OH

ONLINE CATALOGS
Online Accessory Catalog
Request Printed Accessory Catalog
Online Replacement Parts Catalog

MARK V INFORMATION
Find A Shopsmith
MARK V Demo Near You

Request MARK V Information Package

LINKS
Links Worth Visiting
Free Woodworking Tips

FEEDBACK
Contacting Shopsmith

Copyright 2002.
Shopsmith, Inc.
All Rights Reserved

ASK SMITTY!

Ask Smitty No woodworker (except SMITTY, of course) has ALL the answers. From time-to-time, everyone hits a snag, trying to figure out some sort of in-shop problem.
 
Don't worry, SMITTY can help. Just use the
special e-mail link to send your questions to SMITTY. He’ll do his best to get back to you soon, with the answers to those questions.

Here are the questions . . . and SMITTY’S answers for this issue!

If you're having a problem setting-up, aligning or maintaining your Shopsmith equipment, you should contact Shopsmith's Technical Support Staff (NOT Smitty).
 
Call TOLL-FREE, 1-800-762-7555 during normal business hours to speak directly with a Shopsmith Technical Support Representative.

Printer friendly PDF copy of article

Cutting cove moldings
 
From Charles Hofele, via e-mail:
 
I'm trying to cut some cove moldings at a 45 degree angle without success. I've tried laying it flat on my saw table with my miter set at 45 degrees -- upside down at 45 degrees, all with no success. How can it be done?

Cove molding is made with “flats” on the back...on both sides of the board's width. One of these flats should rest against the ceiling...and the other against the wall (both) to hold your molding at a 45-degree angle when installed.

If you want it to fit properly when you place it in position, you'll have to CUT it when it's sitting at that same 45-degree angle on your table saw, power miter saw or cut-off saw.

Therefore, when you make your cuts, you'll have one of these flats resting on your saw's table surface...and the other against the face of your miter gauge (or power miter box's back fence)...holding it at a 45-degree slant as you pass it through the blade. If your miter gauge's face isn't high enough to allow this, attach an auxiliary wooden face to it before making your cut.

Hopefully your molding isn't so wide that your table saw doesn't have sufficient depth-of-cut to do the job. If it is, you may have to purchase a large, manual miter box to make these cuts.

This should solve your problem.

Continue . . .