Smitty
JULY/AUG
2002
Volume 45/Issue 4
IN
THIS ISSUE
Project
Articles
•
The Four-Poster Bed
• The Sunshade Sandbox
• The Secret Compartment Paper Towel
Holder
DEPARTMENTS
•
Ask Smitty
• Owner’s Gallery
• Letters from Owners
Academy Notes
Finishing
Touches - Pt.6 Paints & Stains
Service Pointers
Keep
Your Thickness Planer Running Smoothly
Safety Tips
Safety
Dos and Don'ts
What's
New
Incra
TSIII Ultra Fence System
EDUCATION
• Find
A Shopsmith Woodworking Academy Near You
• National
Woodworking Academy in Dayton, OH
ONLINE
CATALOGS
• Online Accessory Catalog
• Request
Printed Accessory Catalog
• Online
Replacement Parts Catalog
MARK
V INFORMATION
• Find
A Shopsmith
MARK V Demo Near You
• Request
MARK V Information Package
LINKS
•
Links Worth Visiting
•
Free Woodworking
Tips
FEEDBACK
Contacting
Shopsmith
Copyright
2002.
Shopsmith, Inc.
All Rights Reserved
ASK
SMITTY!
Here
are the questions . . .
and SMITTY’S answers for this issue!
Achieving
a straight, ripped edge on rough-sawn lumber
From James Rudecki, via e-mail:
I have some rough sawn ash and am having difficulty getting straight
edges. All the boards are 8' to 9' long and I've been using my Model 510
MARK V to rip the boards square before finishing them on my Jointer. The
edges are slightly curved and I can't seem to get them straight on the
saw or Jointer. These boards are 1-3/8" thick and quite heavy. I've been
using roller stands to support them, but they're still hard to handle.
Any suggestions or techniques you could offer will be appreciated.
I would suggest that you temporarily tack nail or screw a “known” straight-edged board to the top surface of your subject board near its edge...so the straight-edged board protrudes ˝" or so beyond the edge of your subject board. Then, guide the straight-edged board against your Rip Fence, straightening the opposing edge of your subject board. Once you've done this, remove your tacked-on “guide board”, flip your subject board over and guide its straightened edge against your Fence, straightening the opposing edge.
Roller stands are a great help. If you do a lot of ripping on heavy stock by yourself (without the aid of a helper), you might also consider getting one of Shopsmith's Support Tables (Part # 555307). They attach to the outfeed side of your MARK V's Worktable and will even tilt with the table, if you're making beveled rip cuts. These tables can be very helpful to the “lone woodworker” (not to be confused with “The Lone Ranger”). Good luck, Kemasabe !
Screw
pockets versus mortise-and-tenon joinery
From Gary, via e-mail:
Have you found that screw pocket joinery is an acceptable replacement
for mortise-and-tenons in most applications ? They sure are faster and
less troublesome !
The answer depends on whether you want the appearance of mortise-and-tenon joinery (in keeping with the design of your project)...and on whether or not you need the strength of such joints. Mortise-and-tenon joints are, of course, much stronger than screw pocket joints and can be much more attractive in their appearance.
If you're planning to use these joints to connect the stiles and rails of a cabinet carcase, screw pockets are a perfectly acceptable alternative...since these joints are seldom visible...and you really don't need the strength to support normal-sized cabinet doors.
