Major
Project
Article
JAN/FEB
2004
Volume 47/Issue 1
IN
THIS ISSUE
Project
Articles
•
A New Kitchen
• Wooden Utensil Rack & Knife
Block/Cutting Board
• Gallery Rail Paper Towel Holder
DEPARTMENTS
•
Ask Smitty
• Owner’s Gallery
• Letters from Owners
•
New Baby Workshop Calendar
Academy Notes
Clean
Cuts - Pt. 4- Using Oriental Waterstones
Service Pointers
Keeping
Your MARK V Running Smoothly
Safety Tips
Router Safety
What's
New
Bandsaw
Cover and 6" Drum Sander Sleeves
EDUCATION
• Find
A Shopsmith Woodworking Academy Near You
•
National
Woodworking Academy in Dayton, OH
ONLINE
CATALOGS
• Online Accessory Catalog
•
Request
Printed Accessory Catalog
• Online
Replacement Parts Catalog
MARK
V INFORMATION
•
Find
A Shopsmith
MARK V Demo Near You
•
Request
MARK V Information Package
LINKS
•
Links Worth Visiting
•
Free Woodworking
Tips
FEEDBACK
Contacting
Shopsmith
Copyright
2003.
Shopsmith, Inc.
All Rights Reserved
The
Kitchen - Part Two
Cabinet Door Ideas
Decorative Metal
Early settlers used punched sheets of tin and copper much like we use
screen. The holes in the metal allowed the air to pass in and out of furniture
such as “pie safes”, but not the little “critters”.
To reproduce this effect, purchase sheets of copper, brass or tin that are approximately 1/64" thick. Tin (these days, it's actually rolled steel) is by far the least expensive. It's also quite versatile. By rubbing it down with gun bluing, it will take on a blue-brown sheen. Paint it flat black and rub it with Rub 'N Buff Gold, and it will take on a coppery sheen. There are several different antiquing and gilding kits available at crafts stores that could be used to achieve different effects on tin.
Start by making a full-size pattern out of paper and attach it to your metal with rubber cement. Punch holes where desired with a nail or an awl to create your pattern. Or, you could do what we did...take an old center punch and use your Disc Sander to grind its tip to a square (like a typical nail) point to make the process of punching safer and easier (See Fig. 5).
Remember that the punching may cause your panel to buckle or curl. Don't be alarmed. When you've finished punching your holes, just bend it straight again. Buff the surface with #0000 steel wool and cut to size.
Pennsylvania Dutch
Cut a piece of 1/4" thick tempered hardboard to size. If you like, use
your Shaper or Molder to make some decorative molding by shaping the edge
of a board, then simply ripping that shaped edge off your board using
your Table Saw.
Paint that molding and the panel with enameled paint. White is the traditional color for Pennsylvania Dutch designs, but you can use other colors, if they suit you better. You may also wish to wait until after you've assembled the panel into the frame and paint the entire cabinet door at once, as we did.
Once the enameled paint has dried, lightly pencil a design on the surface. There are probably several books on Pennsylvania Dutch designs available at your local library, if you need ideas. Then, with either acrylic or oil paints, color in your designs.
View
Plans &
Assembly Drawings
•
Work Triangle Diagram
• Fig. 1
• Fig.
2
• Fig. 3
• Fig. 4
• Fig. 5
• Corner
Joint Detail
• Cabinet Door Frame Assembly
•
Assembly of Molding on Penn. Dutch
• Penn. Dutch
Pattern
• Punched
Tin Pattern
Printer
Friendly PDF copy of Instructions (776K)
