NOV/DEC 2003
Volume 46/Issue 6

IN THIS ISSUE
Project Articles
• California Dream Toys
• The Mantel Clock
• Christmas Tree Ornaments

DEPARTMENTS
• Ask Smitty
• Owner’s Gallery
• Letters from Owners
 
Academy Notes
Clean Cuts - Pt. 3 - All About Router Bits
 
Service Pointers
MARK V Saw Guards
 
Safety Tips
Proper Workshop Lighting

What's New
When accuracy counts Incra Rules

EDUCATION
• Find A Shopsmith Woodworking Academy Near You
• National Woodworking Academy in Dayton, OH

ONLINE CATALOGS
• Online Accessory Catalog
• Request Printed Accessory Catalog
• Online Replacement Parts Catalog

MARK V INFORMATION
• Find A Shopsmith
MARK V Demo Near You
• Request MARK V Information Package

LINKS
• Links Worth Visiting
• Free Woodworking Tips

FEEDBACK
Contacting Shopsmith

Copyright 2003.
Shopsmith, Inc.
All Rights Reserved

ASK SMITTY!
Here are the questions . . .
and SMITTY’S answers for this issue!

Brad Points or Forstners - which drill bits are the best?
 
Unknown auther, via e-mail:
 
I'm puzzling over which bits to invest in for woodworking...Forstner vs. Brad Point. I see ads in a Shopsmith catalog for both. One advantage I see for Brad Point bits is the greater number of sizes available. Which type is going to provide the cleanest, most accurate cuts?? I would appreciate your advice.

Brad Points are the best overall choice. Forstners are designed for specialized operations such as making large diameter holes or flat-bottomed holes. Overall, it's tough to beat Brad Points for general woodworking.

Seeking “rusty-looking” finish
 
From Andrew McFaul, via email:
 
I recently saw some wood crown molding in a cabinet shop that had a finish that looked exactly like rusted metal. How can I do this?

Since I've never had a call for a finish of this type, I obviously have no experience with this....but I could venture a GUESS. Colonial Maple stains will create a rust-colored finish on certain woods. Get some scrap wood that's the same as the molding...or get enough extra molding so you have enough to experiment with.

If you want a true, blotchy-looking, “nasty” rusted look, apply the Colonial Maple stain with a rag instead of a brush by dabbing it on to make it look blotchy and uneven. If you're looking for just the COLOR of rust, yet want a smoother finish, apply with a brush. If you want a “flat-looking” surface coat, apply a coat of natural Danish or Tung oil....or a coat of SATIN Poly-U over your stain.

Achieving the finish you want is going to be a matter of experimentation.

Removing dark stains form old woodwork
 
From “Patrick”, via e-mail:
 
I bought an old house with a tremendous amount of wood work. The problem is that its pine or fur and it was stained very dark brown. I have tried Zip-strip and bleach even sanding but its just too much. Is there anything that I can do? My goal is to get it back to natural and then to re-stain it lighter because a natural clean coat would look too grainy. Please save me from painting it all white.

Unfortunately, dark, oil-based stains (which was all that was available in “the old days”) on soft woods such as pine, fir and poplar have a tendency to be permanent. Since you've already tried using commercial strippers and wood bleaches, you might try to have some of this “dipped” by a local refinisher. Pick a few small pieces that will fit into a dipping tank and give it a try. If it works, you have a viable alternative. If not, you may be left with no choice but to paint it or replace it.

Continue . . .