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STEP 1:
Cut all the parts to size according to the list of materials — except for the cab sides (F), which will be cut out in Step 3, below. Use a 1-3/8-inch hole saw to cut out the large, 1-1/4-inch wheels (B); a 1-1/8-inch hole saw to cut out the smaller 1-inch wheels (C) plus an extra for the cab pivot pin lock (T); and a 1-5/8-inch hole saw to cut out the 1-1/2-inch crank wheels (P).
NOTE: If you can’t locate these exact size hole saws, you can use a larger diameter saw to cut them out, then mount them on your drill press and file or sand them down to the smaller sizes you need. The 7/8-inch diameter cab pivot pin lock (T) is made by sanding or filing-down an extra disc that’s been cut out with your 1-1/8-inch diameter hole saw. |
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STEP 2:
Make the chassis (A) by first laying out and drilling the 5/16-inch diameter axle holes. Then, use a bandsaw to cut the 30-degree bevels on the ends. Drill the 1-inch diameter by 1-inch deep hole for the cab pivot pin lock (T).
STEP 3:
Make the cab by first drawing all the contours and locating the holes for the cab sides (F) on a piece of 3/4-inch stock. Drill the 3/8-inch holes for the wheel axles (Q). Cut out the side design on the bandsaw or scroll saw. Resaw this piece on the bandsaw to get the two (approximate) 3/8-inch thick cab sides. Don’t drill the 1/4-inch diameter crank lock holes yet. We’ll do this later.
Next, drill the 3/8-inch diameter by 1/2-inch deep hole in the bottom of the cab floor (G) for the cab pivot pin (S). Screw two small screw-eyes into the cab rear panel (H). Glue the cab sides (F)., cab floor (G). and cab rear panel (H). together. When gluing the sides in place, temporarily slip (do not glue) one or two 3/8-inch dowels through the crank axle holes for alignment. Do not glue the roof on at this time.
Continue . . .
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