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ISSUE ARCHIVES

NOV/DEC 2000
Volume 43 /  Issue 2

IN THIS ISSUE
Project Articles
Grandfather Clock, Part 2
Toy Crane
Chess Set

DEPARTMENTS
Ask Smitty
Owner’s Gallery
Letters from Owners

Academy Notes
Six easy steps to squaring a board
 
Find A Shopsmith Woodworking Academy Near You
 
Service Pointers
 
Safety Tips
Dust Collection ­ It Shouldn’t be an Option!

SURF’S UP
Three New Accessories for Your MARK V
Specials & Online Catalog
Links Worth Visiting
Find A Shopsmith
MARK V Demo Near You

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Free Woodworking Tips
Request Accessory Catalog
Request MARK V Video
Request MARK V Information Package

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Copyright 2000.
Shopsmith, Inc.
All Rights Reserved

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Weekend
Project
Article

A Woodworking project that’s
sure to be an uplifting project!
 
Here’s an easy-to-make working crane that’s
destined to get plenty of hours of play time
 
by Norm Marshall

STEP 4:
 
Make the cab roof (J) and counterweight (U) .  Round the top and side edges of the roof on your belt or disc sander. Then, drill the 1/2-inch hole for the exhaust stack (V) . Glue the stack into position and install the 1/4-inch screw-eye.  Set the roof aside.
 
Round the rear outside edges of the counterweight (U)  and glue and clamp it to the cab assembly.

STEP 5:
 
Make the crank assemblies. Using a 3/8-inch diameter drill bit, enlarge the 1/4-inch diameter holes in the crank wheels (P) that were left by your hole saw’s pilot drill.  Drill the offset 1/4-inch diameter holes in each crank wheel for the crank wheel handles. Slide each of these crank wheels onto the 3/8-inch diameter crank axles (but don’t glue them yet).

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View Plans &
Assembly Drawings
 
Overall Assembly &
List of Materials

Chassis Layout
Side Layout
Boom Layout
Overall Dimensions

With a 1/4-inch drill bit mounted in a portable electric drill, insert the bit through the crank wheel handle hole you just drilled and use it as a guide to drill a series of four half-deep holes at approximate 90-degree intervals in the rotation of each crank handle. During assembly, be sure to put the cranks on the right side for right-handers…or the left side for left-handers. 
Drill the 1/8-inch diameter string holes in the crank axles
(Q) (see figure 1).  Sand the axles so they move freely where they pass through the cab mounting holes. Don’t sand the very ends of the axles where they go into the crank wheels. You’ll need a tight fit, here. 
 
Assemble and mount the crank wheels (P) , crank handles (R)  and crank axles (Q)  with glue so each end of each axle is flush with the outer surface of a crank wheel.  When assembled, there must be enough “play” to allow the assemblies to move side-to-side so the boom and hook positions can be locked and unlocked by engaging the protruding ends of the crank handles (R)  in the holes you drilled in the cab side. Remember that the crank/axle with a single string hole goes in the top forward position on the cab.
 
IMPORTANT:  When gluing crank handles (R)  into crank wheels (P) , be sure the handles each protrude about 3/16-inch beyond the back side of their crank wheels. These protruding handle pins are engaged in the half-deep 1/4-inch holes you drilled in the cab side, acting as stops to hold the boom and hook in position during play.

Continue . . .

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Figure 1
 
Use wood backup when drilling the 1/8-inch holes in the crank axles.