ASK SMITTY

No woodworker (except SMITTY, of course) has ALL the answers. From time-to-time, everyone hits a
snag, trying to figure out some sort of in-shop problem.
Don't worry. SMITTY can help. Just use the special e-mail link directly below to send your questions to SMITTY. He'll do his best to get back to you soon, with the answers to those questions

Here are the questions…and SMITTY's answers for this issue…

Jointer sniping

From Tony Eid
(e-mail question -- city/state unknown)

I just re-adjusted my Jointer blades. Now, I’m getting snipes about an inch in from the end. Can you help?

You have one of two problems:
1): You’re pushing down on your stock with excessive force as you approach the end of your cut.
2): You have adjusted your Knives too high. For some great adjustment tips, call Technical Services TOLL-FREE at 1-800-762-7555 and they’ll help you through a resolution.

(copy): Katrina-drowned MARK V

From Kay M.
(e-mail question -- city/state unknown)

Hi - I'm sorry to say that the tool shop where I have my MARK V was flooded (brackish water). The water MAY have been high enough to come in contact or submerge the motor. Definitely the lathe tools, router bits & saw blades were affected because they are all rusty. In your opinion what do you think I should do about the MARK V? Are the accessories salvageable? Is so, how? What would you recommend? I value your response. Many thanks.

MARK V: Blow it out with an air compressor or vacuum cleaner and let it sit for a couple of days (or 3) before you plug it in and try to start it. That way, you'll be sure it's DRY before plugging in.

If it starts, you're OK. If not, call Tech Services TOLL-FREE at 1-800-762-7555 and they'll tell you what to do.

As for the rust on your chisels and other tools....try 0000 steel wool. If that doesn't remove the rust, try some "Naval Jelly {or other rust-remover product}.

I'm guessing your MARK V will be OK...and rust won't hurt saw blades and most accessories (router bit bearings could be ruined).

(copy): Removing

From Bob Hayes
(e-mail question -- city/state unknown)

I have owned my MARK V for 2 years. Unfortunately I have been unable to attend a traveling classroom. I have made about a dozen picture frames from purchased frame wood. I can get close to the perfect cuts but only after sanding, sanding again and again. I do not have any sand paper on the wooden Miter Gauge Extension and it appears that my Miter Gauge can tip very slightly while being pushed through the cutting process.
I am considering buying a fixture to make the 45o cut more accurately. Shopsmith sells a Miter-Pro right angle fixture that fits one of the slots, they also sell a sliding table that can be adjusted for different angles. I also have considered building a sliding jig that uses both slots and a built-in 90 degree wedge that is split into (2) 45 angles with one on each side of the blade. Also I find several of the Incra devices claim great accuracy.
Please give me your recommendation and comments on each of the above devices.

For my money, if all you’re doing is 45-degree corners, the best value is Shopsmith’s Miter-Pro (555404). It’s set at an EXACT 90-degree angle…so, even if your Miter Gauge is off a bit, it will make no difference. The 90-degree corner accuracy is built into the tool.

If you’re doing other angles frequently, I’d recommend the Incra Miter Gauge 2000 (522161A).

If you’re only doing “odd angles” occasionally, I’d suggest that you use a Mite-R-Gage (730342) to set-up your MARK V’s Miter Gauge for making these cuts. It can be accurate to within ½-degree.

(copy): Removing marker stains

From Sandy J.
(e-mail question -- city/state unknown)

How can I remove marker from my oak table top?

If it’s a surface stain, mix pumice stone and light oil (such as linseed oil) into a thick paste and rub WITH the grain with a soft cloth. Clean it off with a fresh cloth and turpentine.

If the ink has penetrated deeply into the finish, it can often be removed with ordinary household ammonia or oxalic acid. It may require repeated applications.

Sometimes, such stains must be carefully scraped off and the area re-finished.

(copy): Minwax Polyshades ?

From Joe
(e-mail question -- city/state unknown)

I recently stripped the finish from a highchair and want to re-stain it.
What do you think of “Polyshades” stain from Minwax ?

They’re great stains….you just have to move fast and carefully during application.

The Poly-U in the stain makes it dry very quickly.

So….move quickly with long strokes and don’t go back over what you’ve already done after about a minute or so or you’ll “drag” the finish.

(copy): Tambour repairs

From Kern Swafford
(e-mail question -- city/state unknown)

How can I fix the sliding cover on a roll top desk? It has split in half.

Although I’ve never done this, here's what I'd probably do...

I would remove the tambour and turn it upside-down on a flat surface.

Then, I would take an artist's (X-Acto) knife and a straightedge and make a slice through the canvas backing, half-way up the tambour slat above the loose one and half-way down the tambour slat below the loose one.

I would then remove the canvas from the loose slat...and from the bottom of the slat above the loose tambour slat and the top of the slat below the loose tambour slat.

Look at the remaining tambours (unaffected by the problem) to ascertain how much spacing (if any) there is between tambour slats. I would do whatever is necessary to maintain that precise distance when re-assembling the loose slats.

Next, I would cut the canvas backing (canvas is probably available at your local fabric store) to the desired width and height and "butter" the backing, as well as the open areas on the slats above and below with contact cement. Allow the cement to dry…then press the backing into position and use clamps or whatever to be sure they are pressed firmly together until the glue is 100% dry.

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