Money
Maker |
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JULY/AUG
2005 DEPARTMENTS What's
New EDUCATION ONLINE
CATALOGS MARK
V INFORMATION LINKS FEEDBACK Copyright
2005. |
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Making all-purpose wooden boxes |
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Step 2: Tilt the saw table to 45-degrees and set a hollow-ground or carbide-tipped blade height to 1-5/8" (without the Jig in place). Make test cuts on scrap stock to check the accuracy of your cut. Step 3: Set the Jig on your saw table and place one of the 8-3/8" pieces in it. Adjust your stock against the fence so that the end to be cut protrudes 3/16" past the kerf cut into the fence (See Fig. 1). Slide the stop block up against the other end of your stock and tighten the bolt. Adjust your featherboard against the edge of the stock so the stock will be held firmly against the fence. Bevel one end of each 8-3/8" board. Step 4: Measure 8" from the mitered end and mark the stock on the uncut end. Set this piece in the jig, align the mark with the kerf and re-adjust the stop block (See Fig. 2). Cut all remaining ends of the boards. Step 5 Repeat steps 3 and 4 for the 5" sides of the box. Step 6 (Optional) Reinforce the mitered corners with splines made from contrasting wood. For tips on performing this operation, refer to your copy of the "Power Tool Woodworking For Everyone" textbook that came with your MARK V. If you want dividers in your box(es), remove the jig from your saw table and cut 1/8" or 1/4" wide dadoes on the inside faces of your stock to accommodate these 1/8" or 1/4" thick dividers...prior to assembly. Step 7 Use woodworker's glue to assemble the sides of your box(es). To clamp, use large rubber bands (See Fig. 3) or pieces of an old rubber inner-tube. Once the glue has dried, carefully sand the top and bottom edges flat using your Belt Sander. Be careful not to remove more stock than necessary.
Position the tops and bottoms so they overhang the edges of the box by about 1/16" all the way around. Apply glue and weight them with bricks or similar heavy objects (See Fig. 5) until they dry thoroughly.
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