Major
Project
Article
JAN/FEB
2005
Volume 48/Issue 1
IN
THIS ISSUE
Project
Articles
•
A Gift For Your Kitchen
• Outdoor Deck Chair
• Bandsaw Boxes
DEPARTMENTS
•
Ask Smitty
• Owner’s Gallery
• Letters from Owners
Academy Notes
Hardwood
Information You Should Know - Pt 4
Service Pointers
Keeping
Your MARK V Running Smoothly
Woodworking
Technologies
Stepped
Dowels
Safety
Safety Lessons I've Learned
What's
New
Bandsaw
Cover and 6" Drum Sander Sleeves
EDUCATION
• Find
A Shopsmith Woodworking Academy Near You
•
National
Woodworking Academy in Dayton, OH
ONLINE
CATALOGS
• Online Accessory Catalog
•
Request
Printed Accessory Catalog
• Online
Replacement Parts Catalog
MARK
V INFORMATION
•
Find
A Shopsmith
MARK V Demo Near You
•
Request
MARK V Information Package
LINKS
•
Links Worth Visiting
•
Free Woodworking
Tips
FEEDBACK
Contacting
Shopsmith
Copyright
2005.
Shopsmith, Inc.
All Rights Reserved
A Gift For Your Kitchen
The raised panel
Depending on the height and width of your doors, you may need to glue-up
stock, edge-to-edge, to create a large panel , making sure that the end
grains “cup” in the same direction. DON'T dowel the stock
together since dowels could split out over a period of time. Instead,
joint the edges, then use your Molder
or Shaper to form a glue joint edge (Fig. 2.).
Cut the panel to size after determining the critical dimension. Next, tilt your MARK V's worktable 15°, turn your panel on edge and cut a bevel all around the outside of the panel. Use Shopsmith's Auxiliary Fence to provide additional back-up support for this operation...and a Hollow Ground Planer Blade to make the smoothest bevel cut.
Before making the cuts, adjust your Rip Fence and the table height so that the saw leaves a 1/8" step between the raised surface and the bevel, and so that the bevel tapers down to 3/16" at the outside edge. WARNING: Use extreme caution when performing this operation, as you won't be able to use your Upper Saw Guard while cutting (Fig. 3.).
The fancy panel
As with the raised panel, glue-up your stock and cut it slightly undersized,
according to the critical dimension of the panel. Set up your MARK V for
Shaping and mount the cutter you've selected with the 1-1/4" Shaper Collar
(for the panel shown here, we used a Quarter-Round Cutter). Make your
first pass, cutting all the way around the edge of the panel. Adjust your
depth-of-cut so the Shaper leaves a 1/4" thick tenon on the edge. Now,
change to 3/4" Collar and make a second pass.This
method of using progressively smaller Collars eliminates “hogging”
- taking too big of a bite in a single pass.
After making the second pass, the tenon should be approximately 3/8" wide - just enough to mount the panel and keep the fancy edging visible. By making additional passes with different Shaper or Molder accessories, even more decorative cuts can be made in the edges or surfaces of your panels...to achieve exactly the look you want (Fig. 4.).
Other panel options
Wood isn't the only material that can be used for cabinet doors. For example,
you may want to consider nail-punched sheets of tin, copper or brass (as
seen in antique pie safes). It's easy. Just make a full-sized pattern
and attach it to a 1/64" thick metal sheet with rubber cement. Then, use
a nail to punch holes in the pattern. In the event the metal buckles during
punching, wait until you've punched ALL of your holes before bending the
sheet straight again. Buff the finished surface with #0000 steel wool
and cut to size. If you need ideas for a punched pattern, check for resources
at your local library.
View
Plans &
Assembly Drawings
• Fig. 1
• Fig.
2
• Fig. 3
• Fig. 4
• Corner
Joint Detail
• Cabinet Door Frame Assembly
Printer Friendly PDF copy of Instructions (584K)
