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JAN/FEB
2005 DEPARTMENTS Woodworking
Technologies What's
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Next, cut a 1/4" deep by 3/8" rabbet on the inside edges of the rails and stiles. To do this, you can use the Shopsmith Shaper or the Router set-up with a bearing-piloted Rabbeting Bit . Cut a 3/4" deep x 3/8" wide x 2" long stub mortise in both ends of the stiles where they'll join the rails. Use a Hollow Chisel Mortiser with a 3/8" Mortising Chisel and make repetitive passes (See Fig. 1). If you've elected to cut a design into the top rail, the mortise may have to be slightly longer or shorter than 2" where the rails and stiles meet. Next, cut a 3/8" wide x 3/4" long tenon on the front sides - and at both ends - of the door rails. The back side tenons should be 7/16" long. These tenons can be formed on the table saw with the aid of a Tenoning Jig. Glue up the frames and set aside to dry. The door panels
To determine just how much play to give a panel, you must first determine the critical dimension. Consider this: Wood expands 10X more across the grain than it does with it. So, if you run the grain of your panel vertically, the critical dimension will be the width. Likewise, if you run the grain of your panel horizontally, the critical dimension will be the height. Once you've determined this dimension, apply the following rule: If the critical dimension is under 12", allow 1/8" play. If it's over 12", allow 1/4". With this critical dimension in mind, determine the type of door panel you want. A raised panel is the simplest type to make, with a beveled edge being your only decorative cut. Another option is a fancy panel, using the Shaper with a Cutter (or combination of Cutters) that will produce the fancy edge you've chosen. The variety of styles is your choice and all can be easily machined on your MARK V. |
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