Smitty
JAN/FEB
2003
Volume 46/Issue 1
IN
THIS ISSUE
Project
Articles
•
Classic Rolltop Desk
• 16-Drawer Apothecary Chest
• First Class Letter Box
DEPARTMENTS
•
Ask Smitty
• Owner’s Gallery
• Letters from Owners
Academy Notes
Should
you have a Thickness Planer in your shop?
Service Pointers
MARK
V Service Pointers
Safety Tips
Hearing
Protection
What's
New
When
accuracy counts Incra Rules
EDUCATION
• Find
A Shopsmith Woodworking Academy Near You
• National
Woodworking Academy in Dayton, OH
ONLINE
CATALOGS
• Online Accessory Catalog
• Request
Printed Accessory Catalog
• Online
Replacement Parts Catalog
MARK
V INFORMATION
• Find
A Shopsmith
MARK V Demo Near You
• Request
MARK V Information Package
LINKS
•
Links Worth Visiting
•
Free Woodworking
Tips
FEEDBACK
Contacting
Shopsmith
Copyright
2003.
Shopsmith, Inc.
All Rights Reserved
ASK
SMITTY!
Here
are the questions . . .
and SMITTY’S answers for this issue!
Using
the Shopsmith Mortising Package
Anonomous, via e-mail:
I just ordered the Shopsmith Mortise & Tenon Package for my MARK
V and am concerned about the added pressure applied to the gearing of
the Quill Feed mechanism that is required to bore the square holes. Any
comments? Thanks.
No cause for concern. Just be sure the quill handle is tightened securely onto the flat of the quill shaft before getting started. Also....it's best to take small “bites” at a time....about 1/8" deep.... progressing from one end of your mortise to the other...then go back and start over until you reach your full depth. Also...be sure to provide some sort of support under the worktable while performing this operation...a 2" x 4" or (if you have a Model 510 or 520 MARK V) the Shopsmith Telescoping Leg Supports will work just fine.
Preventing
tear-out when cutting dadoes
From Ralph Steinhave of Chicago, IL:
Every time I cut a dado, I get “feathery” splinters on
the ends of the cut. This messes-up the clean joint look I want. What
can I do ? My dado blade is brand new and very sharp.
Try using a sharp utility knife, pocket knife or artist's knife to score the outline of the trailing edge of the dado cut before you cut it. Then, when the wood finishes passing over the dado blade, those close-to-the-top grains will have been cleanly severed by your knife.
You might also wonder why he outside blades of your dado set are a little larger than the chipper blades. This is to give your dado cuts a cleanly severed edge. If the chipper blades were the same diameter as the outer blades, they'd tear out chunks of wood fiber, leaving a rough, splintered cut.
Making
coasters
From D.P. Clay of Charleston, WV:
I need to make 3" holes for coasters but I've never seen a drill
that large. Is there a Shopsmith MARK V accessory or method to do this?
Here are a couple
of ideas:
1: Mount the coaster blank to a lathe faceplate with some industrial-grade
double-stick
tape and use your lathe to turn your recess.
2: Or...resaw your stock into 1/8" or 3/16" thickness with your Bandsaw, then cut a hole in one piece with a 3" hole saw or your Scroll Saw and glue it to the other (base) piece. Once the stock is cut, add felt or cork to line the hole and you'll have completed an excellent set of coasters !
