Major
Project
Article
JAN/FEB
2002
Volume 45/Issue 1
IN THIS ISSUE
Project
Articles
•
9-Drawer Workshop Toolbox
• Child's Desk and Chairs
• Candle Sconce and Desktop Pencil Holder
DEPARTMENTS
•
Ask Smitty
• Owner’s Gallery
• Letters from Owners
Academy Notes
Finishing
Touches - Pt.3 Applying a Natural Finish
Service Pointers
Speed
Changer
Safety Tips
Safety
Is
Your Decision
What's New
The
Standard Anniversary Model Shopsmith MARK V
EDUCATION
• Find
A Shopsmith Woodworking Academy Near You
• National
Woodworking Academy in Dayton, OH
ONLINE
CATALOGS
• Online Accessory Catalog
• Request
Printed Accessory Catalog
• Online
Replacement Parts Catalog
MARK
V INFORMATION
• Find
A Shopsmith
MARK V Demo Near You
• Request MARK
V Information Package
LINKS
•
Links Worth Visiting
•
Free Woodworking Tips
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Contacting
Shopsmith
Copyright
2002.
Shopsmith, Inc.
All Rights Reserved
The Workshop Toolbox
Step 2: Cut all parts to size, according to the Bill of Materials by first ripping all stock to width, then crosscutting to length. Joint 1/32" off each end of pieces A & N to bring them to final dimension (See page 76 in Shopsmith's Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone textbook for the proper technique).
IMPORTANT NOTE: You will notice that the height of the box sides (as shown in the BOX SIDE LAYOUT drawing) is indicated as being 12-1/8" -- and the height of the finished box (as shown in the FRONT LAYOUT drawing) is shown as 12". Both of these dimensions are correct. The additional 1/8" is necessary to allow for the saw kerf when sawing lid from the box in step 17, below.
Step 3: Cut the 3/8" wide by 3/16" deep stop dadoes for the drawer glides (F & R) in the sides (A & N), and partitions (J & T), using a 3/8" router bit in the MARK V Router set-up. See Fig. 1.
NOTE: Dadoes are cuts made across the grain of the wood -- Grooves are cuts made with the grain of the wood.
Next, change to a 1/2" router bit and use the same set-up to rout the 1/2" wide by 1/8" deep stop dadoes in the sides (A) to accept the compartment bottom (G).
Step 4: Cut a 1/8" wide by 1/8" deep stop groove on the upper part of the sides (A). These grooves will accept the front and back faces (B & C). Tip: Use a table saw blade that makes a 1/8" wide kerf to cut these grooves. Chisel the bottom of the groove to depth for the front face (B) See BOX SIDE LAYOUT drawing for detail.
Cut the 1/8" wide by 1/8" deep dadoes for the tops and bottoms (H,K,S) in the sides (A & N). Cut the 1/8" wide by 1/8" deep grooves at the top and bottom of the front face (B) and the top only of the back face (C).
Cut the grooves in the backs of the sides (A & N) that will accept the (1/8" x 1/8") tongues on the ends of the backs (L & U). The grooves in the box sides (A) are stop grooves, while those in the base sides (N) run from end-to-end.
Complete the groove and rabbet joints in the back edges of the sides (A & N). See BASE SIDE LAYOUT drawing for detail.
Step 5: Form the 1/8" by 1/8" tongues on the ends of parts B, C, H, L, S & U as shown in the exploded view. Next, form a 1/8" x 1/8" tongue along the front top edge of part G. Form a 1/8" x 1/8" tongue along the front and back bottom edges...and across the bottom edge of each end of part K.
View
Plans &
Assembly Drawings
Final
Assembly
Front Layout
Box Side Layout
Partition Assembly
Base Side Layout
Box to Base Connection
Drawer Construction
Drawer Partition Layout
List
of Materials
Printer Freindly PDF copy of Instructions
Fig. 1 Use the MARK V Router set-up to cut the stop dadoes for the drawer glides
