Major
Project
Article
NOV/DEC
2002
Volume 45/Issue 6
IN
THIS ISSUE
Project
Articles
•
The Pembroke Table
• The Cheval Mirror
• The Child's Sled & Climbing Bear
DEPARTMENTS
•
Ask Smitty
• Owner’s Gallery
• Letters from Owners
Academy Notes
Scrap
Wood Secrets
Service Pointers
RUST
- The degeneration of tools & how to deal with it
Safety Tips
Horizontal
Boring Machine Set-Up & Safety
What's
New
Dial
Indicator Gauge and Adjustable Stop Collar
EDUCATION
• Find
A Shopsmith Woodworking Academy Near You
• National
Woodworking Academy in Dayton, OH
ONLINE
CATALOGS
• Online Accessory Catalog
• Request
Printed Accessory Catalog
• Online
Replacement Parts Catalog
MARK
V INFORMATION
• Find
A Shopsmith
MARK V Demo Near You
• Request
MARK V Information Package
LINKS
•
Links Worth Visiting
•
Free Woodworking
Tips
FEEDBACK
Contacting
Shopsmith
Copyright
2002.
Shopsmith, Inc.
All Rights Reserved
The Traditional Pembroke Table
2. Cut the drop-leaf (rule) joints that allow the leaves to be raised or lowered without leaving an unsightly gap between the leaves and the tabletop when the leaves are down. This movable joint is created by using the Shopsmith Shaper set-up and a combination of two cutters: The Drop Leaf Cove Cutter and the Drop Leaf Bead Cutter. When creating these profiles, it's best to make a series of light passes under the cutters for the smoothest, most tight-fitting results. Again, sharp cutters can make a significant difference in your results.
 |
| Figure 2. Cut in the drop-leaf joints before the edges of the top are shaped. |
Alternative Procedure: As an alternative, you could also use the Shopsmith Molder Set-Up with the Molding Drop Leaf Cove and Bead cutters to create these joints.
3. Form the mortise-and-tenon joints that will anchor the table sides and back to the legs. These joints will stand up under stress from almost all directions. Used as one of our locking joints, they'll help form the durable carcase framework for our table. Start by carefully marking the stock used for the legs, identifying them relative to their final position on the table. This procedure will prevent mixing up the faces as you cut the joinery. Mark the locations for eight mortises and two dovetails.
Before you cut the mortises, however, turn the legs on the lathe. Use the Shopsmith Lathe Duplicator to help ensure that all four legs are identical.
Always cut the mortises BEFORE you cut the tenons because it's easier to cut (or adjust) a tenon to fit a mortise than it is to cut a mortise to fit an existing tenon.
Use your Shopsmith Mortising Package with a 3/8" Mortising Bit/Chisel Set to create these mortises. Be sure to use your Telescoping Legs or a cut-to-length 2"x4" to brace the MARK V worktable during this operation, as the process of cutting mortises with this set-up requires substantial downward pressure, which will create table flex. If you don't have a Mortising Package, you can also cut these mortises by removing most of the stock with a 3/8" brad point drill bit, then cleaning them out with a chisel...or by using your Router set-up with a 3/8" straight router bit.
Next, mark the tenons with a knife to prevent feather splinters, then use your Dado Set-Up to cut the tenons, custom-fitting them to fit your mortises. Cut them 1/8" shorter than the depth of your mortises to leave room for the glue.
A Rule of thumb for mortise-and-tenon joints: Mortise widths should be no more than one-third to one-half the thickness of the stock you're using.
 |
| Figure 3. Cutting mortise in leg (note hold-down). |
 |
| Figure 4. Using dado to cut tenons (note use of extension fence). |
View
Plans &
Assembly Drawings
•
Table Layout
• Table Top Layout
• Detail
A
• Drawer Front
Locking Joint
• Leg Layout
• Front Leg Assembly
• Table
Assembly
• Drawer Assembly
•
List
of Materials
Printer Freindly PDF copy of Instructions
