Smitty
NOV/DEC
2002
Volume 45/Issue 6
IN
THIS ISSUE
Project
Articles
•
The Pembroke Table
• The Cheval Mirror
• The Child's Sled & Climbing Bear
DEPARTMENTS
•
Ask Smitty
• Owner’s Gallery
• Letters from Owners
Academy Notes
Scrap
Wood Secrets
Service Pointers
RUST
- The degeneration of tools & how to deal with it
Safety Tips
Horizontal
Boring Machine Set-Up & Safety
What's
New
Dial
Indicator Gauge and Adjustable Stop Collar
EDUCATION
• Find
A Shopsmith Woodworking Academy Near You
• National
Woodworking Academy in Dayton, OH
ONLINE
CATALOGS
• Online Accessory Catalog
• Request
Printed Accessory Catalog
• Online
Replacement Parts Catalog
MARK
V INFORMATION
• Find
A Shopsmith
MARK V Demo Near You
• Request
MARK V Information Package
LINKS
•
Links Worth Visiting
•
Free Woodworking
Tips
FEEDBACK
Contacting
Shopsmith
Copyright
2002.
Shopsmith, Inc.
All Rights Reserved
ASK
SMITTY!
Here
are the questions . . .
and SMITTY’S answers for this issue!
Installation
of stairway moldings
From P. Moty, via e-mail:
I am installing molding down a stairway. The molding I would like
to install will run parallel to the chair rail molding. The angles of
the panels will not be 45 and 45. I am having trouble getting the molding
to align exactly. Do I have to use a compound cut, and if so, how do I
calculate the angles?
To start with, I am assuming that your intention is to make some sort of “pseudo raised panels”.....either above or below the rail of a stairway.....running parallel with an existing “chair rail” that's also running up this stairway.
First, you'll need to measure the angle of the stair rail (and treads) as they compare to the adjacent vertical wall with a sliding bevel, protractor or other similar tool. Based on our understanding of your situation, this angle is 54-degrees. (Its complimentary angle is 90-degrees minus 54-degrees -- or 36-degrees)
Looking at the panels (or “frames”), as you face them going up your stairway, the top left corners of your frames (or raised panels) angle should therefore be 54-degrees. To cut your miters, you'll have to divide this by two and cut your miter angles at 27-degrees. This angle will be the same 54-degrees for the diagonally-opposed bottom right corners of your frames (or raised panel) angle.
In order to create a complete frame or panel of 360-degrees, the two opposing frame corners (top right and bottom left) will be the previous angle (in our example case, 54-degrees) times two (or 108-degrees) subtracted from 360-degrees. This would equal 252 degrees.
Then, divide this number (252) by two to arrive at the corner angle for each of the two remaining corners. In our case, this would be 126-degrees. As before, you would then divide this (126-degree) angle by two, to arrive at a 63-degree miter cut on each piece in each of these two corners.
So....to summarize. For each frame, you would make four 27-degree cuts....and four 63-degree cuts....totaling 360-degrees.
MARK
V power requirements
From M. Turman, via e-mail:
What AMP breaker does Shopsmith recommend for the Shopsmith MARK
V ? I am setting up a new shop and would appreciate your help.
15-AMPS. We recommend that you use a time-delay or “slow-blow” fuse or breaker...since start-up amperage can reach near 40 AMPS. Also, use wire rated for 15-AMPS - 20-25-AMP wire would be even better - minimum 12-gauge.
