This
simple project that will take you less time to build than you might
imagine at first glance.
Why? Two reasons. First, there’s no trick joinery, here…just
simple dowelled butt joints. and second, because of their unique design,
you can “borrow” machine set-ups from table to the next.
For example: 1) The legs use the same Jointer tapering set-up. 2) Although
the widths of the Table Rails vary, the dowel hole boring set-ups are
pretty much the same.
We built our examples using
red oak, but you can make yours with any wood that best suits your décor.
Just remember that since the legs are to be tapered, they should be
made from clear, straight-grained wood for the best results. So, let’s
get started
.
1: Cut and assemble the stock for the three Table Tops (C).
Make them about 1/2” oversized all the way around so you can square
them up properly once the glue has dried. Be sure to pay close attention
to the grain of the wood as you assemble the pieces for your Tops.
It’s also important that all pieces are made from stock of the
same thickness…and that everything is held flat and true as the
glue sets up. A set of Double
Bar Clamps will be a big help, here. They’re real time-savers,
since they’ll squeeze the boards together and hold them flat at
the same time while the glue dries.
Cut the Table Tops to final size, being sure everything is square.
2: Cut the Legs (D) to size, being certain
they are square, all the way around. You’ll note that all Legs
are made from 1-1/2” square stock in differing lengths. Leave
them un-tapered for now.
3: Cut the Rails (A) to size…again,
being certain they are square, all the way around.
4: Set up for horizontal boring, then bore the holes for the dowels
in the Rail ends. Use your Miter Gauge to hold your stock so the holes
are perpendicular to the Rail ends…and your Rip Fence as a stop
to keep the Rails from moving during the boring process. While you’re
still in horizontal mode, bore the Top stabilizing dowel holes in the
tops of the Legs.
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