No woodworker (except SMITTY, of course) has ALL the answers. From time-to-time, everyone hits a
snag, trying to figure out some sort of in-shop problem.
Don't worry. SMITTY can help. Just use the special e-mail link directly below to send your questions to SMITTY. He'll do his best to get back to you soon, with the answers to those questions.
special e-mail link

Here are the questions…and SMITTY's answers for this issue…

Slippery picture frame corners

From “Dave”
(e-mail question -- city/state unknown)

When I try to fasten the corners of a frame together, they slip and move or they just don't pull together tightly enough. I've tried a number of things and nothing seems to do the job… screws, biscuits, right angle clamps, nothing. Can you help me?

Fear not. Just reach for a couple of pieces of fresh sandpaper and rub them (grit-sides) together, collecting the grit that comes off in a sheet of newspaper. Then, butter your frame’s corner joints with glue…sprinkle some of this grit over the glue for each joint and clamp everything together. The abrasive grit should keep the corners from slipping during assembly.

Correcting Bandsaw Blade drift

From Paul M.
(e-mail question -- city/state unknown)

Is there a way to prevent Bandsaw blade drift?. I can't seem to cut a straight line when re-sawing. If I use a 1/2 inch blade, it seems to bend and turn the wood as it cuts. What am I doing wrong?

This is a question that has been asked (and answered) many times. Most bandsaws and blades have a certain amount of “lead” (the tendency of the blade to “wander” off the line in one direction or another) that affects the straightness of the cut line. As a 30+-year woodworker, I've learned that no two blades perform identically. As a result, a small amount of compensating is usually required for each blade. I “automatically” compensate for this without thinking about it by merely adjusting my angle of feed.

If you'd like to use a Fence to ensure line straightness, you'll have to offset (or “angle”) your fence accordingly. Here's how. Take a 3/4" x 3" wide x 24" long (or so) piece of hardwood and draw a line down its length, separating it into two 1-1/2" wide pieces.
Adjust your Bandsaw properly (guides, etc) and cut a straight line VERY SLOWLY.... compensating by adjusting your angle of feed as you cut.

When you get within 6" of the exit end of your cut, cease cutting and hold your workpiece firmly down onto the tabletop (without allowing it to move), while you turn off your bandsaw.
Now, using a sharp pencil, draw a line along the back (nearest the bandsaw's rear throat support) side of your board.

Adjust the angle of your fence to match this drawn angle and all rip cuts will be straight....PROVIDING YOU'RE USING THE SAME BLADE.

Using oversized Bandsaw blades

From “Otto”
(e-mail question -- city/state unknown)

I have an older 11” Shopsmith Bandsaw. A local store has 72-5/8” Bandsaw Blades for sale. Will these blades work on my Shopsmith Bandsaw?

Although a 72-5/8” blade will probably work, we do not recommend using blades longer than 72”, as doing so will alter the pivot point of the upper arm (which holds the wheel), thereby altering the blade position in its guides.

For safety’s sake, we strongly advise you to stick with 72” blades.

Whipping spindles

From “Skip”
(e-mail question -- city/state unknown)

Can you tell me how to build a steady rest for the MARK V ? I haven’t seen any in the catalog and have discovered a definite need for one when turning along table leg or spindle.

Yes, Skip, we have a Steady Rest for the MARK V. Just go to the on-line catalog and search for part number 555280.

Turning short workpieces

From Fred Z
(e-mail question -- city/state unknown)

When I turn a short piece of wood, there doesn’t seem to be a good position for the Tool Rest Arm – it’s either too far away or too close. Other than buying the new Universal Tool Rest, is there another solution?

There is a 2” Spacer available for your Ball Bearing Live Center. (Part # 514704 -- $5.43).

It threads on between the bearing “head” of your Live Center and its Morse taper shank…and makes the Live Center 2” longer.

It’s made for use with the Lathe Duplicator and is a fairly obscure product, not normally offered in the catalog. It should do the job for you.

Pocket hole joinery

From Jim S.
Abilene, TX

I have I have a Mark V, Model 510 and have been using a Shopsmith for about 35 years. I want to set up for pocket hole joinery. Can you tell me where to go to learn how to make jigs and find equipment that is easy to use and accurate?

Jigs are not necessary with the MARK V.

Just put your machine into Drill Press position….tilt your table to 15 degrees…and use your rip fence as a backstop while you lay your workpiece on the table and drill away.

It’s always a good idea to put a ½” piece of plywood under your workpiece to avoid drilling into your table surface.

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