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Marking the drawers
Once you've removed the sides, use a square to lay out the drawers on
the front and side of the box carcase. On our two-drawer box, we allowed
1/2" thickness for the bottom of the box, the top, the back and the drawer
separator. For lighter boxes, you may reduce these measurements to as
small as 1/4". (See Fig. 2)
When determining
your drawer depth, allow 1/4" to 3/8" for the thickness of the drawer
bottom. Here, you're left with drawers 7/8" deep. Make the fronts and
backs 3/8" to 1/2" thick. When you draw your drawer lines, be sure the
corners are rounded and not square. Remember the turning radius of your
blade when you make your corners: 1/4" for 1/8" Blades - 3/8" for 3/16"
Blades and 1/2" for 1/4" Blades.
Cut the first
drawer
Use your Miter Gauge and Rip Fence for the straight sides. Stop when you
get to the corners and remove the Miter Gauge. Cut the corners freehand,
then replace the Miter gauge and cut the other side.(See
Fig. 3)
Cut the second
drawer
Accuracy is extremely important when you cut the drawers, so work slowly
and carefully.(See Fig. 4)
Assess your progress
Here, you se the box carcase after both drawer blanks have been removed.
The depth of each drawer opening is 1-1/4" and the drawers will be 7/8"
deep. To accommodate larger pieces of jewelry, this same size box could
be made with just one drawer. In this case, the finished drawer would
be about 2-1/2" deep.(See Fig. 5)
Cut the drawer
sides
Put the drawer blanks on the Bandsaw and cut off the sides. the thickness
of these drawer sides is 3/8". Mark each drawer and the sides after they
are cut so that later, you'll be able to match them up when you glue them
back together. This is important. (See
Fig. 6)
Mark the drawers
Draw lines on he sides of the drawer bodies to indicate the front, bottom
and back of each drawer. In this case, they are all 3/8" thick. Once again,
remember to round the corners so your blade can make the turns. (See
Fig. 7)
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